-
15th September 2016, 06:32 PM
#7011
Expert
Refit my tow bar from when I fitted up the long range tank, painted the rear step and rear plastic trims. installed now trailer plug. Ordered all the piping to build a 3" exhaust.
-
-
15th September 2016 06:32 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
-
15th September 2016, 06:45 PM
#7012
Expert
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
-
-
15th September 2016, 10:00 PM
#7013
Legendary
Originally Posted by
mudski
Rear disc conversion Ian. Although less surface contact area using disc over drum, but you have more clamping power on a disc and less the chance of brake fade due to heat.
I find that my front brakes will over ride the rear how would I be able to amp up the rears ... When I brake in the wet the the front locks up and the rears are still running free !! (I have rear disk )
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
-
15th September 2016, 10:20 PM
#7014
The master farter
Originally Posted by
timbar
I find that my front brakes will over ride the rear how would I be able to amp up the rears ... When I brake in the wet the the front locks up and the rears are still running free !! (I have rear disk )
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Assuming the calipers arent seized and the brake fluid is good etc etc.
The bias valve affects the rear brakes. If the Patrol has been lifted this will affect how the bias valve works.
Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk
-
The Following User Says Thank You to mudski For This Useful Post:
timbar (15th September 2016)
-
15th September 2016, 10:58 PM
#7015
Legendary
Originally Posted by
mudski
Assuming the calipers arent seized and the brake fluid is good etc etc.
The bias valve affects the rear brakes. If the Patrol has been lifted this will affect how the bias valve works.
Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk
Can the bias valve be adjusted to suit the lift ??
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
-
15th September 2016, 11:15 PM
#7016
Legendary
Originally Posted by
timbar
Can the bias valve be adjusted to suit the lift ??
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You'll need a extended bias bracket.
It pretty much moves the valve the same amount of the lift, so it's back in the original position.
Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk
12/97 GEE YOU
4.5lt Gas blower. Lots of mods to come.....all in good time.
-
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to jay see For This Useful Post:
mudski (16th September 2016), threedogs (16th September 2016), timbar (15th September 2016)
-
16th September 2016, 08:32 AM
#7017
Patrol God
trying to get well enough to get to Georges so he can service my Auto.
This has been going on for a couple of months now, might feel better
when the weather picks up, Geurge has been very flexible about it, LOL
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
-
-
16th September 2016, 09:54 AM
#7018
The master farter
Originally Posted by
jay see
You'll need a extended bias bracket.
It pretty much moves the valve the same amount of the lift, so it's back in the original position.
Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk
Easy enough to make one. You just need to lift the anchor point of the diff upwards to the same height as the lift is. Or there abouts.
-
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to mudski For This Useful Post:
jay see (16th September 2016), timbar (16th September 2016)
-
16th September 2016, 02:16 PM
#7019
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
Cuppa
When I bought my Patrol I found the brakes to be very spongy & complained to the car yard I bought it from. They told me to take it to my local Nissan dealership to get fixed at no cost to me. Got it back from the dealer’s workshop who told me they had changed the fluid & bled them (they had the brake fluid was a different colour). Problem was that the brakes felt no different at all.
I complained & the workshop manager assured me that this was normal for Patrol brakes. Thinking he was treating me as a dumb car owner who knew nothing I made it clear that I did not believe that any properly working brakes could feel so bad. He assurred me again that they were normal & added that Nissan deliberately design them like this to ensure that owners are less likely to lock the brakes accidentally in off road conditions! Convinced he was spinning me a line I continued to complain, whereupon he led me to a customer’s almost new ST wagon & invited me to sit in the driver seat & test the brake pedal for myself. It felt exactly like mine - like if you press hard enough the pedal could touch the floor. In reality the brakes would lock before you got to that point. Nevertheless the brakes inspired no confidence whatsoever. Different pads & rotors on the front gave a noticeable improvement. (Anyone know if there are any performance shoes available for the rear drums?).
Been thinking about your problem then it dawned on me you have two things going against you.
First is your weight, youll never stop in the same distance as a wagon.
And second is the drums on the rear, but mainly the weight.
Id be looking around for a disc to disc rear end then do what @nissannewby said
with the brake proportioning valve. but IMHO you'll never stop like a wagon.
You will get it to stop safely I feel lol
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
-
-
16th September 2016, 02:52 PM
#7020
Travelling Podologist
@threedogs I may have been misunderstood. My brakes stop me reasonably well & safely. Of course any improvement is welcome but I’m not about to spend big bickies to achieve it. The issue I described was about the ‘feel’ of the brakes, & was also prior to my camper conversion with an empty pod, so a fair bit less weight at that time. It was a shock experiencing Patrol brakes after the Troopy. Of course little has changed since then other than the replacement front discs & pads do pull me up quicker, still with little feel compared to many other vehicles, but I have become accustomed to them. I can lock up the wheels if I want to. Amazingly the brakes in stock form, (except for an adjustment of the front rear bias) & with the camper conversion completed & fully stocked as for a trip (ie max weight) the brakes exceeded the specified minimum system pressure & managed the required stopping distances in the engineer’s dynamic braking tests. They are better than that now. One day I’ll fit braided lines as I expect that will improve feel, but there are a number of other priorities first.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
-
The Following User Says Thank You to Cuppa For This Useful Post:
threedogs (16th September 2016)