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Loaded vehicle, camper trailer in tow.
You start to cross a nice piece of low flat ground and you end up with a stuck situation. Mud past wheel rims but not up to hubs.
You are in big doo doo as wife and kids on board.. Having a brew while thinking out the solution.
Seems to have a firm base but no traction forward. The wheels will spin but no forward movement and not sinking due to wheels digging big holes. Seems mud is just lubricating wheels, no grip.
Ground wet and saturated due to recent rain. No water running in the flat area you are crossing.
So query:
Do you just consider this as mired or a combination of mired and ground conditions.
Both have ramifications in winching.
Options:
Treat it as non mired but only ground?
Treat it as mild mired and ground?
Treat it as only mild mired?
Treat it as some precent between mired to rims and hub, some where between 100% and 200% of Gross Vehicle Load?
Which option should one use in the base winch cals.
on the basis that you have a camper in tow i would immediately use a double line pull regardless as the difference in your calculation is certainly close to load limit versus plenty of range in a double line pull.
When in doubt double up.
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever. WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
[QUOTE=Nisshead;604423]Sorry, i don't even understand the wording
If mired is like girt then I have no clue lol sorry
You could release the trailer and winch the 4x4 out
90% of times you only need to winch 1mt to free yourself.
Put a shovel under the jockey wheel or Hitch and winch the trailer through second.
I take it this is a solo situation.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
Stuck (mire) resistance:
A pull of 100% of LW will be required if the truck is stuck to a depth of the sidewall on the tires.
A pull of 200% of LW will be required if the truck is stuck to the hubs.
A pull of 300% of LW will be required if the truck is stuck to the frame..
Surface/ground resistance
A pull of 1/10 LW will cause a free wheeling truck to move on a hard, level surface.
A pull of 1/3 LW will cause a free wheeling truck to move on a softer surface, such as grass or gravel,
There is a range of these resistances based on the type of ground/surface.
Dont think anyone carrys a calculator with them for recoveries.
every situation is different,
eg same place different 4x4, not sure if there is any rule of thumb,
more a common sense thing I reckon
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
If you have no grip IE traction then the surface is obviously very slippery so that means the apparent load on the winch will be low on the scale
Hypothetically maybe 1/4 to 1/2 TW tops
Option A
1. Leave the Camper on
2. Single Line pull and drive out (Low 1st) at the same time, will be about maybe 1,000 Kg load tops (driving reduces apparent load as a % of TW by heaps)
3. If it loads up too much go to Option B
Option B
If you have a snatch block then same as A but rig a 2 to 1 advantage on the cable
If you don't have a Snatch block or it loads up as you attempt to drive go to Option C
Option C
1. Disconnect the trailer
2. work thru A and B as needed
3. Once you are out, rig a skid for the jockey wheel on the trailer and winch it out
Note, if you have to winch a free wheeling vehicle then that is a different issue entirely and loads will be much greater IE in line with what is in the calculator
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
Forget the BS about mired ground blah blah. (Shaking head here)
Just run your winch out to something solid to hitch too, bury your spare if need be.
2nd gear low range and don't touch the throttle, let it idle.
Get your partner to operate winch button or remote and keep wheels straight ahead, pull both vehicle and camper through while you walk along side and shovel any available rocks under wheels..
driving reduces apparent load as a % of TW by heaps
Note, if you have to winch a free wheeling vehicle then that is a different issue entirely and loads will be much greater IE in line with what is in the calculator
I am looking at both situations, drive and non drive.
The % reduction in driving seems to be variable though.