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1st April 2015, 08:40 PM
#41
I am he, fear me
Originally Posted by
mudski
Well its all in and connected. I started the car up, lights came up on the ctek, the power light, the alternator light and the service battery light. I checked the charge voltage and the crank battery is getting a charge but the aux isn't. new battery there so maybe its charged enough sitting at 13.5V.... I can't see anything in the three whole pages about voltage cut-off etc etc..
Ooops my bad, post deleted wrong thread
Last edited by the evil twin; 1st April 2015 at 08:49 PM.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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1st April 2015 08:40 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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1st April 2015, 09:16 PM
#42
Originally Posted by
mudski
Well its all in and connected. I started the car up, lights came up on the ctek, the power light, the alternator light and the service battery light. I checked the charge voltage and the crank battery is getting a charge but the aux isn't. new battery there so maybe its charged enough sitting at 13.5V.... I can't see anything in the three whole pages about voltage cut-off etc etc..
If the starter battery is charging or below required volts I think around 10.5v then the ctek will not charge the AUX battery until the starter hits 13.4 or 13.7v just from memory when I had mine in the gq
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1st April 2015, 09:59 PM
#43
The master farter
Originally Posted by
Dinger
If the starter battery is charging or below required volts I think around 10.5v then the ctek will not charge the AUX battery until the starter hits 13.4 or 13.7v just from memory when I had mine in the gq
Hmm. The alternator is putting in around 14v to the starter battery though. It say I don't need to earth the starter battery to the ctek. Then I see a Youtube vid from Baintech where they say to do...Paranoia is kicking it, again. Lol. Last thing I want is to eff another aux battery and have warm beer.
Last edited by mudski; 1st April 2015 at 10:20 PM.
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2nd April 2015, 02:24 PM
#44
I am he, fear me
I would connect Solar, Cranker and Aux (esp if that is the Baintech recommendation) -ve to the Ctek.
It eliminates any poor earthing or high resistance return.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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17th July 2015, 09:10 AM
#45
Expert
Originally Posted by
mudski
Hmm. The alternator is putting in around 14v to the starter battery though. It say I don't need to earth the starter battery to the ctek. Then I see a Youtube vid from Baintech where they say to do...Paranoia is kicking it, again. Lol. Last thing I want is to eff another aux battery and have warm beer.
Mudski, how did you go with this? Looking at getting a D250S soon. I've got a CTEK MXS 5.0 and the thing is brilliant.....
GROOVY GUVII
2" Toughdog Lift, Ctek D250S, 152AH AGM Battery, Homemade Battery Box, Duel Rear Cameras, GME TX3510W UHF, Alloy Roof Rack, Kings 2.5m Awning, Titan Drawers.
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17th July 2015, 09:44 AM
#46
The master farter
Originally Posted by
clubbyr8
Mudski, how did you go with this? Looking at getting a D250S soon. I've got a CTEK MXS 5.0 and the thing is brilliant.....
All fitted up well mate. It works as it should. It was a lot bigger than I though it would have been though. I had it fitted in the engine bay next to the aux battery, but now I am doing the conversion I have removed it for now so theres room in the bay for ease of fitment of the new motor. Well, I removed the entire aux side and all wiring so I will start again once the new donk is in and running. I think I will mount in under the lhs dash somewhere this time, to keep the heat away from it.
Although I do like the redarc BCDC1225 better, as I have one of those in my camper, this was shite easy to wire up though. Very impressed by this.
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The Following User Says Thank You to mudski For This Useful Post:
clubbyr8 (17th July 2015)