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25th November 2014, 08:23 PM
#11
i would make the neg wire that you run to the cranker bat-ctek-aux bat the same gauge as the pos you run to the ctek parallel to it.
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25th November 2014 08:23 PM
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25th November 2014, 09:05 PM
#12
Expert
@mega - my cables are all 8AWG
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25th November 2014, 10:00 PM
#13
Originally Posted by
bishbashbosh
@MEGA - Bugger i aint thought about that bit..
should i run a small neg cable back my from AUX to the NEG point on the ctek?
I thought you were referring to a smaller wire than the one you used for the positive but I would be linking both negative terminals via the ctek not just the aux
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26th November 2014, 12:05 AM
#14
I am he, fear me
Originally Posted by
Nightjar
Question:
If your starting battery fails/goes flat will your auxiliary battery wiring handle a start?
No, because that isn't the purpose of a DT250S
They are a low current device
If you want to be able to start off the Aux you need a Smart Pass as well as the DT250S
Alternatively you not utilise the CTEK gear and fit a VSR instead.
Redarc, Intervolt and many other manuf version of VSR will be suitable.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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26th November 2014, 12:12 AM
#15
I am he, fear me
Originally Posted by
megatexture
I thought you were referring to a smaller wire than the one you used for the positive but I would be linking both negative terminals via the ctek not just the aux
He has already wired the Cranker and Aux terminals directly to each other so no need to do that.
It only needs a wire from Aux -ve to DT250S -ve as per the manuf installation instructions.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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26th November 2014, 01:28 AM
#16
Originally Posted by
the evil twin
He has already wired the Cranker and Aux terminals directly to each other so no need to do that.
It only needs a wire from Aux -ve to DT250S -ve as per the manuf installation instructions.
Yep just looked at first post again, and that would be the easiest fix providing there isn't much voltage drop to delaying the inbuilt vsr charging the aux (13.2v cut in)
How's a smartpass meant to help with a jump start?, they boost the output of the d250dual from 20a max to 80a max for larger battery banks up to 800ah but with a dead cranker will be useless?.
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26th November 2014, 11:17 AM
#17
I am he, fear me
Originally Posted by
megatexture
Yep just looked at first post again, and that would be the easiest fix providing there isn't much voltage drop to delaying the inbuilt vsr charging the aux (13.2v cut in)
How's a smartpass meant to help with a jump start?, they boost the output of the d250dual from 20a max to 80a max for larger battery banks up to 800ah but with a dead cranker will be useless?.
Hiya Mega,
Apologies for my poor explanation earlier, as you mention it doesn't read quite right due to lack of info.
DT250S
The -ve terminal on the DT250S is essentially a sense terminal (like the sense wire for an Alt) and no high current flows in that circuit so minimal voltge drop and quite light gauge wiring can be used.
The manuf specs for the wiring to the -ve terminal are for 20 Gauge or thereabouts IIRC.
The high current and therefore the 10 B&S requirement is Alt to DT250S to Aux +ve to earth (using aux and cranker -ve in the OP's case).
Smartpass
These are used for large battery banks as you correctly mention and/or "back" charging the Cranker and/or reducing charging time of the Batteries.
The Smart Pass requires much heavier cable, either 2 or 4 B&S, which will handle the current for a parallel start.
I didn't mention they won't just do it out of the box (my bad) what I should have said is that the wiring will.
But... if you are using 2 or 4 B&S then why not save a heap of bucks and use a VSR which will parallel batteries at the flick of a switch.
My personal opinion is that unless there is exotic battery technology involved IE if it is normal lead acid batteries in the vehicle then the best option in a 4WD is a high current VSR (Redarc, Projecta, Intervolt etc) with 2 or 4 B&S rather than a DC DC converter.
Cheaper to do and works fine in 4WD applications.
You can charge/jump/winch etc to your hearts content and charge more quickly albeit not to as high a SOC than a DC DC jobbie will.
DC DC converters (DT250S etc) are great for Calcium/Lith Iron batteries or Battery banks in Vans, Boats etc which have long cable runs and multiple plugs susceptible to voltage drop issues.
Totally my opinion and both solutions have different advantages or disadvantages
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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26th November 2014, 11:42 AM
#18
Expert
I got power!
I'm thinking all is right.. Thanks for all the advice! It is such a great feeling - I've never done anything like this before!
Saved money on getting someone else to do it that I can now invest in something else for the patrol..
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20th December 2014, 01:23 AM
#19
Looks good mate. Couldn't put your second battery in the engine bay?
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21st December 2014, 12:35 PM
#20
Expert
i did not have the space due to dual fuel - quiet happy though with it in the cargo area now..
PS - plenty of room to put a bigger battery or third in the rear of my draw system too..
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