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LIST OF THINGS NEEDED:
Perspex uv spec
4 x Hinges 15mm offset stainless
10mm timber
12 x bolts, washers & Nuts (to suit hinge)
8x 20mm self drilling steel screws
4x compression locks barrels suited to 1 key (ebay is your friend)
White non permanent pen
First you will need to remove your stock windows.
DO NOT REMOVE PROTECTION FILM..
Cut perspex 5mm short of the outer rubber seal on the STOCK window frame.THIS IS THE HARDEST AND MOST TIME CONSUMING PART OF THE JOB. You want to get the bottom section fitting first when moulding the window to position once the botom is a nice fit Its time to get your hinges fitted now you need to cut timber to fit to hinge shape. You need to have a rolled edge on one long side of timber so it gets a nice fit into the roof. Pre drill holes to suit the hinge holes. You will need to mount these to the roof I used liquid nails aswell as the self drilling screws see pic below 1394357726725.jpg
Now you will need a hand from someone to press the window against the hinges to mark your holes to drill and mark out your lock positions the back off the lock is to jam on the frame of the car. 1394361937903.jpg
Drilling and cutting perspex is a GENTLE job for cracking and melting reasons. I used a drill press on the slowest setting in and out motion dont drill in one movement. Once holes are drilled mount the window in bolt it up(hand tight) now you will need to cut the top including corners to suit your desired opening angle 1394357714364.jpg
So once the easy parts done its time to put some sealant on the bolts and lock tight the nuts 1394357674110.jpg
Time to cut your seals to suit and fill in the gaps I chose this seal 1394357674110.jpgas it seems like it was made for the job the u channel section is to go on to the frame of the car and the bubble bit goes to the outside facing the perspex this does keep the rain and dust out ive tested over the past 6 months. However its no good with a gernie so I hand wash the windows.
Hopefully it will turn out to a finished product like this. 1394357635101.jpg1394357714364.jpg
I have done this on my phone I will fix this up abit more overtime to make it abit clearer and understandable as we have had the computer shit its self.
Any questions google it. Nah im more than willing to help you through it.
So at the end of the day you have put 4x screw holes in your car its cost less than $200 and you can access the back easier than ever yes it could be done better in the hinge side of things however this is a budget build should take about 2 hours
Last edited by healy; 12th March 2014 at 09:37 AM.
Nice one Healy, does it whistle at all? Nice and tight?
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever. WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
Great job Healy, I've been thinking of doing similar with checker plate. However I might look at using Perspex to keep weight down. How do you keep window up, I was thinking of gas struts of some type.
Gas struts was an option but I wasnt happy with the way they need to be fitted up and then it adds more holes in the panel also im just making a holder off the roof rack set up string and a hook lol. Both panels locks etc wouldnt even weigh half the weight of one stock window
Good job mate, I've been thinking of doing this to my gu.
It will be the same way to build it. And the best part it didnt cost anything in the end I actually made $80 by selling my stock windows win win until everybody catches on lol