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11th June 2011, 10:04 AM
#11
Expert
Hi Boagie, yep Redline is good oil but "maybe" not as good as they claim, i have gone down the path of which oils to use in both of my bikes and i put Redline (at $40 a litre) in the box of my Harley (lucky it only takes a Litre). Anyway, it didn't change any better and was no quieter than any other oil i have tried even though everyone was claiming that it would be ? I have read all the Redline tests etc and I am not knocking Redline but i think there are oils out there that do the job just as well without the added expense, as long as you change the oil/filter regularly. I use Mobil 1 V-twin full syn in the Harley, Shell full syn in the Triumph and will be using all Penrite oils in the Patrol. Just for interest sake, one oil that did make a noticable difference in the box of the Harley was Amsoil but it's not easy to get so i didn't bother continuing to use it. I usually try an oil then listen to the engine/box and see how things sound/opperate etc., mind you it's a lot easier to hear what a bike engine is doing than a Patrol engine lol. At the end of the day i think most oils out there are pretty good these days as long as you are buying a reputable brand. My old Ford EL has over 300,000km's on it and barley uses any oil and i have always run Valvoline in it at $30 for 4 or 5 litres depending whether it is on special. I have always changed the oil and filter every 10,000km's and never had a problem, been around Australia towing a van in the old girl and even though we just bought the Patrol i can't part with her.
Last edited by 1peter; 11th June 2011 at 10:12 AM.
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11th June 2011 10:04 AM
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13th June 2011, 12:47 PM
#12
Expert
yeah mate--i just put redline in the box,and the rear diff and transfer----it sounds very quiet-----but i use penrite in the engine.i have a ktm in which i run fuchs ---made quite a difference----it changes more easily now--when i am beating up on it!!!!lol
You don't drive...you patrol!
99 gu dx 4.2 diesel cab chassis - "THE GOLD DIGGER"
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18th October 2012, 04:20 PM
#13
I found this thread after I tried to undo the filler plug (yeah, I have heard of people being caught with a drain plug that undid and a filler that didn't) and it won't budge.
Before I go all Tarzan on it I thought I should check to see if there is a knack or if it is a left hand thread or something.
Or do I just add muscle until it moves?
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19th October 2012, 05:10 AM
#14
Originally Posted by
joeker
I found this thread after I tried to undo the filler plug (yeah, I have heard of people being caught with a drain plug that undid and a filler that didn't) and it won't budge.
Before I go all Tarzan on it I thought I should check to see if there is a knack or if it is a left hand thread or something.
Or do I just add muscle until it moves?
Normal direction for undoing.
a slide bar with and extension making handle 2x should do the job.
sealent and less torque next time doing up.
cheers
IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE
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19th October 2012, 05:33 AM
#15
SPAMINATOR
Originally Posted by
joeker
I found this thread after I tried to undo the filler plug (yeah, I have heard of people being caught with a drain plug that undid and a filler that didn't) and it won't budge.
Before I go all Tarzan on it I thought I should check to see if there is a knack or if it is a left hand thread or something.
Or do I just add muscle until it moves?
Go Tarzan man. I use an electric wheel nut gun. Similar to a rattle gun. The square 1/2" drive does the job
Sent via my tapping thumbs
IF YA DONT GET STUCK YA AINT TRYIN HARD ENOUGH........OR YA TOOK THE CHICKEN TRACK
WARNING: TOWBALLS USED WITH SNATCHSTRAPS DO KILL!!
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19th October 2012, 08:17 AM
#16
Originally Posted by
growler2058
Go Tarzan man. I use an electric wheel nut gun. Similar to a rattle gun. The square 1/2" drive does the job
Sent via my tapping thumbs
Excellent advice there - I have one of those units and will dig it out and get rattling!
Thanks guys
Joe
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