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10th July 2011, 06:00 PM
#11
Originally Posted by
TimE
This is another simple wiring diagram to wire a work light into the reverse light.
The problem with this circuit diagram is you will have the load of the light running through the toggle switch.
You are better of having the relay switch all of the load.
Such as connecting
Terminal 85 of the relay connect to earth
Terminal 30 of the relay connect to battery via a fuse
Terminal 87 of the relay connect to the work/reverse light
Terminal 86 of the relay connect to the centre/common terminal of your toggle switch.
One side of the toggle switch connect to your vehicles original reverse light circuit.
The other side of the toggle switch connect to a battery feed.
If you need a picture let me know.
I can draw one and scan it but....lol I may need help with posting it.
Last edited by MudRunnerTD; 19th April 2012 at 03:27 PM.
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Yendor For This Useful Post:
blocko05 (28th July 2015), MudRunnerTD (2nd December 2011), patch697 (10th July 2011)
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10th July 2011 06:00 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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10th July 2011, 06:03 PM
#12
Originally Posted by
Yendor
The problem with this circuit diagram is you will have the load of the light running through the toggle switch.
You are better of having the relay switch all of the load.
Such as connecting
Terminal 85 of the relay connect to earth
Terminal 30 of the relay connect to battery via a fuse
Terminal 87 of the relay connect to the work/reverse light
Terminal 86 of the relay connect to the centre/common terminal of your toggle switch.
One side of the toggle switch connect to your vehicles original reverse light circuit.
The other side of the toggle switch connect to a battery feed.
If you need a picture let me know.
I can draw one and scan it but....lol I may need help with posting it.
Yep.... Thats the way I'd recommend but just didn't have the time to type it all out so thanks Rod....Top Job mate.
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2nd December 2011, 01:19 PM
#13
Beginner
I put a couple of lights like that on the back of my GQ, also on swivel so I can turn them round the side or what ever, but didn't use a relay, is there any issue with just runing a wire from the battery to the switch to the light (then eathing the other end of the light)??
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2nd December 2011, 01:28 PM
#14
Moderator
Originally Posted by
ZTG
I put a couple of lights like that on the back of my GQ, also on swivel so I can turn them round the side or what ever, but didn't use a relay, is there any issue with just runing a wire from the battery to the switch to the light (then eathing the other end of the light)??
Yes mate, very bad. The full power draw load of your lights will be burdened on your switch which will not likely be rated for such a draw. The whole purpose of a relay is as a switching circuit. The relay carries the current and the power draw and your switch then just switches your relay on and off and basically has NO LOAD.
Put a relay in mate, Its Really Really easy and you basically already have what you need to do it. Get it done.
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MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by
Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
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2nd December 2011, 01:30 PM
#15
Originally Posted by
ZTG
I put a couple of lights like that on the back of my GQ, also on swivel so I can turn them round the side or what ever, but didn't use a relay, is there any issue with just runing a wire from the battery to the switch to the light (then eathing the other end of the light)??
You would need a fairly substantially sized/rated switch to handle the power draw reqired without burning out the switch over extened use so its always good practice to run the power supply for the lights themselves through a relay & protect it using an inline fuse rated accordingly.
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2nd December 2011, 06:52 PM
#16
Smart like tractor
and the fuse should be rated LESS that the current carrying capacity of the cable ie if the cable is rated at 12amps use a 10 amp fuse. If a fault occurs your cable heat up and likely catch fire before the fuse realises there is something wrong and breaks.
96 GQ coil/Cab
08 G6eT
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2nd December 2011, 10:44 PM
#17
Expert
Originally Posted by
Yendor
The problem with this circuit diagram is you will have the load of the light running through the toggle switch.
You are better of having the relay switch all of the load.
Such as connecting
Terminal 85 of the relay connect to earth
Terminal 30 of the relay connect to battery via a fuse
Terminal 87 of the relay connect to the work/reverse light
Terminal 86 of the relay connect to the centre/common terminal of your toggle switch.
One side of the toggle switch connect to your vehicles original reverse light circuit.
The other side of the toggle switch connect to a battery feed.
If you need a picture let me know.
I can draw one and scan it but....lol I may need help with posting it.
I have my rear lights threw a relay as you discribed, but I would like to put a 2nd switch near the back doors for when using the lights as camp lighting.Can someone tell me how to acheive this please.
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4th December 2011, 12:18 AM
#18
Originally Posted by
Trolatron
I have my rear lights threw a relay as you discribed, but I would like to put a 2nd switch near the back doors for when using the lights as camp lighting.Can someone tell me how to acheive this please.
Run some twin core wire from the relay to your new switch, (can be light gauge wire) connect both wires to your switch.
At the relay connect one wire to the 86 terminal, leave existing wire connected.
On the other wire fit a inline fuse holder and connect this to terminal 30, leave existing wire connected.
You will also need to fit a blocking diode in this previously connected wire.
Terminal 86 of the relay connect to the centre/common terminal of your toggle switch.
If you don't fit the diode and you have the toggle switch in the dash set in the reverse light position and you use the rear switch the reverse lights on your vehicle will also come on, and if your truck is also in reverse then a back feed will also happen in the ignition circuit.
Because you are using these lights for camping it would also be a good idea for you to have the battery feed at terminal 30 of your relay connected to your second battery, to prevent your main cranking battery from going flat (if doing this you will have to fit that blocking diode).
What type of lights are you using? LEDs?
If it is LED's then you can just run a battery feed to your second switch and the other side of the switch to your lights.
Hope that all makes sense
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4th December 2011, 09:23 AM
#19
Expert
Originally Posted by
Yendor
What type of lights are you using? LEDs?
If it is LED's then you can just run a battery feed to your second switch and the other side of the switch to your lights.
Sorry Yendor I should have mentioned that they are led lights.I'm glad I asked I never heard of a blocking diode befor,I thought there would be a catch to running 2 swithes threw 1 relay.
I have two 27W floods going up above my spear wheel so with 54w there is it still ok to bypas the relay.
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4th December 2011, 10:12 AM
#20
Do you know the current draw of the lights?
I would expect it to be less then 3 amps, if so then yes you can bypass the relay.
Last edited by Yendor; 4th December 2011 at 10:18 AM.
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