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Just a few pics of my nads although i don't have a dawes the steinbuaer prevents turbo spiking and i did grab a egr blocking plate but am not sure whether to fit or not as i have read good and bad things so if there is anyone with the 3.0 commonrail and has one fitted please let me know how it is, cheers......
Blocking the EGR will help stopping hot exhaust gasses from entering the combustion chambers and will lower EGT’s. It also reduces the chance of the inlet manifold runners becoming restricted by the thick black grease when it mixes with oil from the crankcase and helps to keep the engine oil cleaner for a longer period. The only thing is that this also will increase boost, so you may want to invest on a manual boost controller.
Grimace - blocking the EGR is well worth it on a common rail motor. The car drives so much better. It will trigger an engine warning light sometimes so you will need to invest in some sort of OBD2 device to reset it. You dont need a boost controller the ECU catches over boost very quickly. I collect about a table spoon of oil in my catch can every 1000km.
Grimace - blocking the EGR is well worth it on a common rail motor. The car drives so much better. It will trigger an engine warning light sometimes so you will need to invest in some sort of OBD2 device to reset it. You dont need a boost controller the ECU catches over boost very quickly. I collect about a table spoon of oil in my catch can every 1000km.
Sorry to tell you mate, but the ECU wont help you here. See, take into account that the ZD30 on Patrols tends to overboost, on top of that blocking the EGR raises boost; althought there is a boost sensor, the ECU doesn’t monitor or have mixture control over each individual cylinder, on top of that, the engine does NOT have an exhaust temperature sensor, so it can’t tell if a particular cylinder is being over fuelled (running rich). And we all know what "rich" means on a diesel...
Now, by this I dont mean you are wrong or anything like that, it is just that eventhought the ECU will reduce boost when it gets too high, this system is very slow to react therefore boost spikes of up to 25psi are common.
There is always more than just one variable to watch for my friend, specially on that God for saken engine. Hope this helps...
Last edited by JoseM; 30th March 2012 at 02:15 AM.
In my opinion based on first hand evidence you dont need a boost controller on a common rail. If you plan to modify it in anyway tho you MUST have a boost/egt guage and a OBD2 tester.
I have now done 20,000km since I blocked the EGR. I have a Autron boost/EGT guage. When I tow my camper up a long hill sometimes the boost does spike (never more than 22 psi) but its very quick and has never been for more than half a second. After driving the car for so long now you can predict the circumstances that it can happen. You can back off the VNT screw on the turbo and this will eliminate it from ever happening - I haven't done this as I don't see it necessary. Just drive the car to the conditions and I dont thrash it.
Installing the EGR block is very simple. Undo a couple of bolts and drop out the gasket. I then got out the tin snips and cut a plate of 1mm stainless steel to the same shape. Drilled two holes. I then used little bit of copper spray just to hold the gasket and plate together - you could really just use silicone or similar. The plate is a bit fiddly to get back in. Whole job can be done in under an hour. Really easy to do.
Sorry Jose, I have to agree with create here. You talk about the ecu monitoring boost but not mixture. Create was talking about boost pressure not mixture so that is irrelevant. I've just carried out 3" exahust, EGR block and intercooler upgrade. The car drives awesome and boost has only increased slightly. No problems. This is on a 05 GU IV patrol ZD30.
My next mod is going to be EGT gauge. Does anyone know what temperature is normal to be running?
HELL NO !!!!!!
Originally Posted by create
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