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Thread: Central locking fault 1993 GQ

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    Central locking fault 1993 GQ

    Hi All,
    Anyone have any ideas re: my faulty central locking.
    When I open/ close the drivers door with the key, the rear offside & rear door unlock/ lock , but the passenger & rear near(kerb) side door do not. When opening the passenger door with the key , only that door unlocks / locks. I assume the nearside doors are somehow in electrical series as opposed to parrrallel.
    Not sure if its related , but the interior light does not work if the passenger door is opened, but does if the drivers door is!
    A good starting point please....

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    The 747 Winnie's Avatar
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    The passenger door does not activate the central locking. When you open the door you will see a switch that would be pressed when the door is closed. That activates the interior light, probably something wrong with the switch there.
    When I turn the key probably 20% of the time the passenger door doesn't fully unlock, no problem just reach over and let the passenger in. However very rarely the driver's side rear door doesn't lock, worrying!


    Sorry for the mini hi-jack here, but...
    If I wanted to install a remote locking kit, I would only have to put an actuator on the driver's door yeah? Bugger all room behind the door trim though...

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    pominozjohn (23rd March 2012)

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    I think its fairly common for them to get a bit sticky in their old age. Open it up and give it all a spray to loosen up all those linkages. I have to do the same to mine when I get around to it.

    tappn it
    91 GQ Ti TB42 Wagon/Pertronix 2/Nomad Heavy Duty Auto/33"STTs/2"Springs/Uniden/Stainless Snorkel/Spotties
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    pominozjohn (23rd March 2012)

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    Hi kristoffa , i just fitted a remote kit on my gq i just used 1 motor but room was tight so my motor is mounted at the bottom of drivers door facing up with the rod from that motor connecting to th snipper knob rod , it is a nice fit

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    i was also told i did not need the motor at all and to tap into the central locking harness in the drivers door but that was in the too hard basket for me though !

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    Cookpa, do you have any pics of how you mounted the actuator? I am trying to find somewhere to mount one in the front and rear doors and haven't worked out a place yet.

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    The 747 Winnie's Avatar
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    My car came with an immobiliser in it and it had remote locking as a feature. Amateur hour with whoever installed it though, other than the fact that all the wires were just twittled together and taped up, they wired it so the remote locking only worked with the ignition on. I ripped that system out though.

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    On 93 maverick also, only drivers door is a master key, activates the other doors, as pointed out by KRISTOFFA.
    They can get a bit temperamental, all mechanisms needing a spray lube inside door etc.
    I recently had to replace both rear door actuators ( solenoids ).
    They had been working fine, or so I thought.
    Both actuators had snapped their output shafts, and obviously had stopped working the locks.
    I could here solenoids working, but nothing happening.
    The push rods they were attached to simply swing in the breeze, so to speak.
    Replaced the gen ones with 2 slaves from Jaycar Electronics.
    As gen new $$$ was simply not an option.
    You could try 2nd hand.
    but think could also break anyway as the design looks pretty weak.
    If this is your problem also then.
    Simply remove solenoid bracket with gen actuator together.
    aftermarket actuator simply installs a little lower straight up/down.
    can use original plug no need to cut it off, if you wish.
    following notes make install, less painless.

    NOTE- before you install actuator.
    Install crimps, female spade, on slave wires and install into oem plug.
    Probably good practice to solder and heat shrink cover, crimps on slave wires.
    The elec system simply alternates the current between the 2 oem wires.
    so if pulse is mismatched you simply swap to get correct operation, easy.
    Another good reason to use crimp fittings.
    you do have to drill 2 small holes in door for solenoid but this is easy to line em up.
    just take care in lining things all up,including new push-rod at same time.
    excess push-rod simply cut off.
    a bit of lining up, jigger-ling to do.
    but once all lined up simply do screws up and presto finished.
    And follow the instructions that come with slave for the push rods,angles are important.
    A couple of cable ties to secure wires also.
    Cheers
    Last edited by Robo; 24th March 2012 at 12:37 PM.

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    If you have a GQ or early GU and your central locking works and you would like to have keyless entry (remote) all you need is the keyless entry unit and one door lock actuator, which you will need to fit to the driver side front door.

    The actuator mounts on the inside of the door frame, just make sure it clears the window as it goes up and down.

    Pominozjohn,

    As has already been posted you have a problem with the "passenger & rear near (kerb) side" this could be either a binding mechanical problem with the locks, a problem with the actuators or a wiring problem (possible a break in the wire harness where it flexes as the door opens and closes).

    Your problem with the interior light not working when the passenger side door is open is more then likely a faulty switch (nothing to do with the central locking problem).

    Try swapping the switch with the one from the driver side door, you should just be able to pull this switch apart and clean the contacts.

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    Does anyone have a picture of where the actuator is located in the passenger rear doors? I can't seem to find anywhere that I can mount one.

    Thanks.

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