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19th September 2010, 09:23 AM
#11
Welding the crank can be a temporary fix if you're not a very good welder but if you get the crank properly remanufactured then you'll find there are specialists that can repair the keyway quite successfully and permanently. Whilst general welding is not rocket science, it does require some understanding of metallurgy to effect a good repair. If the section under repair is highly stressed then No, your weld will probably not have the shear strength to cope, but the keyway for the harmonic balancer is not highly stressed in regards to shear forces, it is a locating point and also is an interference fit to some degree. The reason it chops out in the first place is from the bolt coming loose. Loctite should be use to secure the balancer nut to prevent it coming loose and allowing the balancer to move and chopity chop the keyway. If the keyway was supposed to cope with all the torque then it would be on a splined shaft. do some googling for crankshaft repairs/repairers... you might find the fix cheaper than first thought.
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19th September 2010 09:23 AM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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23rd September 2010, 08:41 PM
#12
We have decided to get the bottom end work done - just waiting for a quote from the mechanic
The mechanic has done some more checks etc, and happy that there is no damage to the head. The pressure tests showed no leaks, and he is happy that it only needs the bottom end work
Will keep everyone posted!
2006 GU ST 3.0td manual. CTEK 250S Dual Battery - Ironman 65L Ice Cube - Pioneer AVH-3600DAB - Tough Dog Adj 45mm Shocks, springs and HD steering damper - Airtec Snorkel - King Brown 3" exhaust
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The Following User Says Thank You to tracemul7 For This Useful Post:
DX grunt (23rd September 2010)
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23rd September 2010, 09:24 PM
#13
Nasty Dog - Moderator
Originally Posted by
tracemul7
We have decided to get the bottom end work done - just waiting for a quote from the mechanic
The mechanic has done some more checks etc, and happy that there is no damage to the head. The pressure tests showed no leaks, and he is happy that it only needs the bottom end work
Will keep everyone posted!
Great news if there is any Trace, all the best and hopefully you will be back off the road soon.
If any members require assistance in anything regarding this forum, just let me know via a PM and I will help you in any way that I can.
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12th October 2010, 11:09 AM
#14
Hey All - just a quick update!
Quote from mechanic about $3500 for bottom end rebuild, plus $500-1000 for the major service that we had originally booked it in for (we supplied most of parts to save money) - so between $4000 and $4500 all up!
Latest update yesterday is that the engine is out and the work is being done! Yay!!!
Hopefully should have it back next week - and ready for some adventures! Woohoooo!
Will keep you all updated
2006 GU ST 3.0td manual. CTEK 250S Dual Battery - Ironman 65L Ice Cube - Pioneer AVH-3600DAB - Tough Dog Adj 45mm Shocks, springs and HD steering damper - Airtec Snorkel - King Brown 3" exhaust
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The Following User Says Thank You to tracemul7 For This Useful Post:
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12th October 2010, 11:28 AM
#15
Administrator
Great stuff, for sure keep us updated!
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12th October 2010, 10:50 PM
#16
Patrol God
@ least it should be reliable Trace!
Getting Older Is Unavoidable, Growing Up Is Optional!
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24th October 2010, 01:41 PM
#17
if you are removing the crank anyway why not just get the front where the damper sits built up and machined back to spec a cheaper option ive used many times on many occasions
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26th October 2010, 02:46 PM
#18
Originally Posted by
Adlarplant
if you are removing the crank anyway why not just get the front where the damper sits built up and machined back to spec a cheaper option ive used many times on many occasions
Hey Adlarplant - until last month i didnt even know what a crank was lol (being a girl, i'm pretty sure i can use this as an excuse to look confused at ANYTHING to do with cars/engine).
So basically, I have no idea what you mean
If you can explain in girl terms that would be excellent!
And a quick update: We should be able to pick her up tomorrow!!! Yay!! The total bill has come in just under $4500, which includes the bottom end rebuild, major service, front brakes, aircon compression unit replaced, plus a number of things like the aircon pulley was totally missing etc etc. Cant wait to have her back and ready to go!!
We're doing Adelaide to Melbourne via Great ocean Road between xmas and new year, so looking forward to that trip
2006 GU ST 3.0td manual. CTEK 250S Dual Battery - Ironman 65L Ice Cube - Pioneer AVH-3600DAB - Tough Dog Adj 45mm Shocks, springs and HD steering damper - Airtec Snorkel - King Brown 3" exhaust
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26th October 2010, 03:13 PM
#19
Expert
Love to see the list of things done. I hate it when mechanics use woman to double their profit for the week.
1984 MK Anniversary Model, LWB,SD33,Air-Con,P/S,Straight Body,Minimal Rust.........Not Bad For Free
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27th October 2010, 12:22 AM
#20
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
tracemul7
Hey Adlarplant - until last month i didnt even know what a crank was lol (being a girl, i'm pretty sure i can use this as an excuse to look confused at ANYTHING to do with cars/engine).
So basically, I have no idea what you mean
If you can explain in girl terms that would be excellent!
And a quick update: We should be able to pick her up tomorrow!!! Yay!! The total bill has come in just under $4500, which includes the bottom end rebuild, major service, front brakes, aircon compression unit replaced, plus a number of things like the aircon pulley was totally missing etc etc. Cant wait to have her back and ready to go!!
We're doing Adelaide to Melbourne via Great ocean Road between xmas and new year, so looking forward to that trip
Trace, can I advise you to buy really good oil and coolant, to put into the back of FURBY 4 for when you need to do top ups while travelling. Get instructions clear from mechanic what you need to do to keep your warranty valid with him, before leaving his shed.
Getting Older Is Unavoidable, Growing Up Is Optional!
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