ADVICE sought PLS... YEP!! ZD30 2003 Nissan Patrol

[Superjuice2072]

Hi Team,

I have spoken with Chaz on the forum, in person... who I would like to publicly thank for his genuine concern, guidance and suggestions... Mate, you have been a true champion for me... !!

My problem:

ZD30 2003 Nissan Patrol 130K - Beaudesert Exhuast 2 1/2 inch / Dawes Boost Controller / Boost 15 PSI / Needle Valve / Provent 200 / EGR / Lift Pump / Boost Gauges before and after intercooler / EGT Gauge (range 600F @ 100K flat road - 1000F @ 100K uphill...

November 2011 - Simpson Desert - engine light ON with big loss of power - this was intermittent, progressing to ON for remainder of drive home (1000+K) - Nissan air filter - New MAF sensor - New fuel filter changed on the trip - No effect on the warning light

Description of fault - engine light comes ON - big loss of power - turn vehicle OFF - restart - no engine light ON and return of normal power... other times, after restarting engine, warning light still remaining ON and big loss of power still...

December 2011 - Nissan dealership - $120 - P7 injector pump - suggested to replace the injector pump...

January 2012 - Second opinion - $350 - P7 injector pump - suggested to replace the injector pump... 2 days later, vehicle back to normal performance - nothing wrong - all very good

February 2012 - Warning light ON/OFF intermittently without a pattern - sometimes with loss of power and other times without loss of power - no pattern noticed, except MAYBE, if the vehicle is put under load whilst RPM is < 2500 - not sure about this though...

March 2012 - Lift pump close to tank with a small cheap filter before pump - vehicle seems to be driving normal MOST of the time - warning light on dash and big loss of power occasionally - turn vehicle OFF and restart - warning light goes away and return of power - this isn't like LIMP mode where there is a temporary loss of power if ECU recognises 18PSI... unless I have a wrong understanding here...

So now, vehicle has been operational with occasional warning light/power loss - BUT, yesterday... driving home (with light trailer in tow) - sudden rise in EGT and no boost (<5psi)... no warning light ON and no loss of power, other than myself driving with less right foot due to temperatures...

Anybody have ANY ideas what may be wrong OR any guidance toward who to approach, in Queensland, that would be able to fault find this problem... I am NOT convinced (yet) that it is the injector pump... and lean more toward an electrical or other problem...

Thanks for reading and your ideas...!!

Lindon

[Maxhead]

Mate, this is a bit of a tricky one and good luck sorting this out. The only thing I would suggest is your earth straps/points I have heard these can give some strange faults

[Chaz]

Hi Lindon,
Still having problems mate??

NissPat has a good point, check for continuity from battery negative to body/chassis, should be zero ohms.

I would remove the small cheap filter. Any unnecessary restriction in the fuel delivery system will increase the chance of problems. The only time I’ve ever seen a case with similar symptoms was when a friend filled his tank with a jerry can that had quite a lot of rust flakes in it which made their way to the fuel filter and blocked it. His engine was getting an MIL and limp every time he put it under load and then he would turn it off and start again ok with no MIL. We assumed it was water in the fuel, but when we removed the filter, found it was full of rust. 2 filters later and no more problems.
The problem could be electrical, but I’m leaning towards fuel. Not necessarily the pump, but possibly inadequate supply to the pump or air getting into the fuel line. Check the o ring up under the filter head.

The boost and high EGT issue is something else. Check that the actuator arm is lifting up when you start the engine. If not, you either have a vacuum leak or pressure leaking past the Dawes valve. It’s not too uncommon to see the vacuum line split off where it connects to the metal tube just under the front of the intercooler. Check that you have at least 26 to 30”Hg vacuum from the vacuum pump. Even intercooler hoses can split and leak.

Good luck with it mate, and let us know how you go.

Chaz

[macca86]

I would throw in mother board failiure on the computer try swiching computers. Turbo has had it I had to replace mine at 178 000 km similar problems as you described happend to mine. or leaking intercooler or hose

[Superjuice2072]

NissPat,

I've checked the earth strap to the motor previously, but will do so again... thanks for the reminder... will get back to you about that... I guess I would be checking the end and giving it a little sandpaper to ensure a contact...? Nothing else would increase the contact that I can think of, yeah...??

Chaz,

1. Zero ohms... roger... I haven't checked that...
2. I'll remove the small filter in front of the lift pump... thought they were supposed to have them in order to protect the pump itself...
3. The fuel filter was fine last time I replaced, but may put a new one on when I place a new o-ring in the head of the filter assembly
4. I haven't noticed any fuel leaks along the lines, even after the pump installed... how else may I check whether there are any leaks... I have exhausted my eyes checking them over, and don't know any other ways... or can't remember if you mentioned on the phone some time...
5. I haven't checked under the intercooler... will do...
6. Will check the actuator arm is lifting when starting...

Thanks Chaz... will keep you posted as to what I find...

Macca86,

1. I plan to pull the turbo to check the bearings at least...
2. I'll check the intercooler for leaks too...
3. If all else fails, I'll look at the mother board... do you know a rough cost of those guys?

Thank you gentlemen...!

Lindon

[Maxhead]

NissPat,

I've checked the earth strap to the motor previously, but will do so again... thanks for the reminder... will get back to you about that... I guess I would be checking the end and giving it a little sandpaper to ensure a contact...? Nothing else would increase the contact that I can think of, yeah...??

Lindon

That sound like the plan mate. it will do the trick

[Airstrike]

Sounds like Nickpeacocks problem but he has the GU 4/5

[Sir Roofy]

Heres a long shot for ya
run a spanner over your injector pipes

just a thought

[big_fletch]

G'Day mate, i have had the same problem with my own Troll (2002 GU III wagon).

The P7 Code can be thrown up from water or air running into the injector pump past the sensors, not necessarily from a faulty injector pump. My code was caused from air getting into the fuel system as Chaz said
On my Troll i used a little Square Flapper fuel pump (about $40) because they reach just a couple of PSI pressure. I removed the fuel hose from the metal pipe on the chassis rail to the fuel filter and put the pump in line between the two. I then Turned the pump on and walked away for 20-30 mins and let the pressure sit in the lines from the fuel pump through the filter, into the injector pump and injector return line.. When i came back i found a wet spot (that was dripping lol) on the fuel line as it goes into the Injector pump as the line was split.
$10 for a new piece of hose and i have yet to have the code come back (nearly 4 months)

I have also used this method to find a leaking spill line banjo seal inside the rocker cover.

Just remember you dont need a big high pressure pump, only 2-5psi is required if using this method and will generally show up a leak. I have also used the same method on mates and customers cars and works very well in my opinion
Maybe something else to try?

Fletcha

[Yendor]

Fletch, that's a great idea.

Lindon, you could try powering up you lift pump without the engine running for the 20 minutes or so and recheck for leaks as per Fletchs suggestion.

Has anyone tried fitting a clear hose on the fuel return line? you would then be able to see if there was any air bubbles in the fuel.