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25th June 2012, 11:00 PM
#21
No problem mate. Happy to help out. Forums like this are about helping each other work smarTer not harder.
Dave
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25th June 2012 11:00 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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3rd August 2012, 10:24 PM
#22
I had one of these fitted to my 98 2.8 TDe, and when the central locking played up, Nissan flatly refused to even look at it because I had fitted an alarm not Nissan.
Took it to the folks who intsaled the alarm, and they told me the fault was in the central locking not the alarm, and Nissan should fix it.
Nissan declined to come to the party as long as the non Nissan alarm was fitted.
So folks, before you go down this road, ensure you will never call upon Nissan for any work on your car, cause they'll knock you back.
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6th August 2012, 09:39 PM
#23
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8th August 2012, 10:05 PM
#24
Originally Posted by
itchyvet
I had one of these fitted to my 98 2.8 TDe, and when the central locking played up, Nissan flatly refused to even look at it because I had fitted an alarm not Nissan.
Took it to the folks who intsaled the alarm, and they told me the fault was in the central locking not the alarm, and Nissan should fix it.
Nissan declined to come to the party as long as the non Nissan alarm was fitted.
So folks, before you go down this road, ensure you will never call upon Nissan for any work on your car, cause they'll knock you back.
A few things.
The vehicles this is being suggested for are several years out of warranty.
If you are capable of following the instructions, you don't need a dealer to fix your central locking - in fact you are doing it to completely avoid ever having to have a dealer do anything to your central locking ever again.
If you take something to the dealer and ask them to fix it, they'll do it - or contract it out to an auto elec in the area - unless you sound like you are trying to get it fixed for nothing, in which case they'll give you an excuse like that. Again, that situation is likely to relate to warranty which isn't an issue here.
If an actuator did fail under warranty, it's not caused by the device switching it. Whether the trigger is from the switching of the other door actuators from a poverty pack setup with a switch activated by the key in the drivers door, or whether it's triggered by an aftermarket locking system is immaterial. Further to that, if you'd asked Nissan to fit central locking to a GU in '98 it'd have been an aftermarket dealer fitted system anyway.
Dave
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8th August 2012, 10:17 PM
#25
Originally Posted by
mudski
Would have been really easy to work it out in under 20 minutes given that the wiring colours are the same as the ones in the info here...
Mate, given where 4wds go - ie rough terrain, corrugations etc - or where they should go but some never do, you might want to reconsider the crappy scotch locks (wire taps). They are a recipe for disaster on a central locking kit. Bit of vibration and change of temperature and you could very easily find yourself locked out of your truck. They are a really lousy alternative to a good join that should be taken off the market.
When I did my apprenticeship, the guys in the rig lab did some tests on them and the voltage drops on a scotch lock that had started to oxidise were pretty high too. Easily high enough that the heat from even a mediocre current draw will cause the housing to deform and for the connection to fail - particularly when people start using them to tap feeds for lighting and other med-high draw devices.
Might take longer than 20 minutes but do it properly and you'll not regret it.
Dave
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11th August 2012, 04:02 PM
#26
Originally Posted by
davejones
Would have been really easy to work it out in under 20 minutes given that the wiring colours are the same as the ones in the info here...
Mate, given where 4wds go - ie rough terrain, corrugations etc - or where they should go but some never do, you might want to reconsider the crappy scotch locks (wire taps). They are a recipe for disaster on a central locking kit. Bit of vibration and change of temperature and you could very easily find yourself locked out of your truck. They are a really lousy alternative to a good join that should be taken off the market.
When I did my apprenticeship, the guys in the rig lab did some tests on them and the voltage drops on a scotch lock that had started to oxidise were pretty high too. Easily high enough that the heat from even a mediocre current draw will cause the housing to deform and for the connection to fail - particularly when people start using them to tap feeds for lighting and other med-high draw devices.
Might take longer than 20 minutes but do it properly and you'll not regret it.
Dave
Was done properly, I used scotch locks first to make sure everything it o.k then I soldered them up. Properly. So add another five minutes for soldering
Last edited by mudski; 11th August 2012 at 04:04 PM.
Reason: grammmaaaaarrrr
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7th September 2012, 04:00 PM
#27
Well this is where I am currently at. Email sent to Nizzbits for a factory drivers side door latch mechanism, with factory keyed central.
A little spring, held centrally on a nylon post has let go inside the latch assembly. I spent 2 hours trying to reset it, but have given up in frustration.
Means loss of drivers exterior door handle and interior door handle operation.
Funnily enough I did find an aftermarket solenoid for remote central locking, so once I get this current problem sorted out I will investigate what aftermarket system has been installed and get a new remote.
Door will be held closed with an occu strap for a while yippee
Dave
99 GU 2.8 TD
Brisvegas, QLD
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7th September 2012, 05:04 PM
#28
Also love the way stuff like this always happens on a Friday arvo after 1600... Never bloody Monday morning
Dave
99 GU 2.8 TD
Brisvegas, QLD
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11th September 2012, 04:50 PM
#29
Big thanks to Gary at Nizzbits..new door mech arrived today and fitted up no problems.
Followed the loom for the remote central locking and discovered everything is there....apart from the main control box.
Its been disconnected at some stage and tossed.
The wiring is dodgy as hell so I am going to strip it all back and install a new control unit...the original solenoid in the door works, so I can retain that.
Glad the door works now, annoying trying to tie a door closed with bungy cords.
Cheers
Dave
99 GU 2.8 TD
Brisvegas, QLD
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12th September 2012, 09:39 AM
#30
IT might be a little off the subject - I have a GU 2008 DX, which doesn't come with remotes from factory, but as I understand it I can just buy one, and program it in, is this correct?
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