No more GU IV genuine keyless entry. Installed a Dynamco Cyclops controller.
Welcome to the Nissan Patrol forum. To post a question and to see less adds on the forum then you will have to register
first. We are an easy going friendly forum so join in the conversations and feel free to ask any questions.
Become a forum sponsor for only $20 and see no adds with faster page loading times and many extras benefits.
No more GU IV genuine keyless entry. Installed a Dynamco Cyclops controller.
Hi all,
Disregard the previous post asking for a pin out for the central locking control module. It's gone.
I was a bit sick of the short range of the factory remote, and I'd drowned one and was looking at the cost of replacements and decided to go down a different track.
An afternoon with a multimeter, a couple of beers and some head scratching, a visit to Jeff (East Coast Auto Electrical) for a second opinion and it's done. The central locking on the GU is now controlled by a Dynamco Cyclops P275. They're Australian made, really reliable, spare remotes are cheap & easy to get and the unit with two remotes cost half of what it was going to cost to replace one factory remote.
I was going to use one of these KE-CLR-TX90 Keyless entry system but Jeff had the other in stock and I might end up hooking up the immobiliser feature later.
There was a bit of mucking around involved. The GU keyless entry triggers aren't straightforward. Rather than just taking a negative pulse to trigger lock or unlock, they actually alternate the polarity across the actuators. Also triggering the indicators to provide visual confirmation requires an additional relay.
All the connections required can be found in the keyless entry model plug. Along with the kit you also need a standard relay and some diodes for the indicators, and two SPDT relays to drive the central locking.
The glove box comes out first - about 8 screws and it and it's surround just comes away then the module is in above the cavity between the glove box & the stereo. If in doubt push the unlock button & listen for the clicking.
I'll have to draw a few diagrams to explain wiring it up if anyone's interested.
I don't really have a use for the old remote & controller now, so maybe ebay might pay for the new one by selling the old one. Dunno if they fit into a DX to give it central locking?
Mate,please post any wiring diagrams or pics you have of the install.
I am sick of the "drivers door with key, central locking" and am looking at installing a remote central locking kit.
My understanding so far, is I need one remote-activated solenoid to initiated the drivers door lock.
Mate,please post any wiring diagrams or pics you have of the install.
I am sick of the "drivers door with key, central locking" and am looking at installing a remote central locking kit.
My understanding so far, is I need one remote-activated solenoid to initiated the drivers door lock.
Dave - if yours is an ST it should already be installed. All you have to do is get a remote fob from Nissan.
You can put in a dynamco for half the cost of a genuine fob & get two remotes though. Just involves a little more work.
Might mean you only need the controller if you already have an actuator in the drivers door.
Pull the glove box out and see if the controller is there. The drivers door lock unlock switch that does the passenger doors and locking from the drivers door lock in the handle works independently of the control module so it's hard to work out if there's an actuator in the drivers door unless you either take the door trim off or have a look for the module.
I was dubious about the fact that I had "keyed central locking", and no remote entry...I will call Nissan with our VIN and see what they can tell me (won't hold my breath...).
If no response,I will rip that glove box out and see what I can find.
Thanks very much for the replies....look forward to getting an answer of some sort tomorrow.
Will update with results...
Cheers
Dave (1...?) haha
Third try at this. I'm at work and the pager keeps going off.
I've knocked up some drawings that should help you out.
If you have any questions feel free to ask. These will work with the units in the top of the thread, and probably other negative triggering central locking units also.
The dash lay out drawing shows the location of the unit accessed by removing the glove box.
The plug layout is viewed as if looking into the back of the plug from the cable side. (Same as looking into the connector on the Keyless Entry Controller.
There's a drawing that should give you an idea of how all the actuators are set up which I've referenced to my pin numbers for the plug.
The relay pack I made using three Bosch/Hella style 30A automotive relays. The don't need to be high current relays but the standard auto relays are cheap, easy to get & the pin numbers are a standard configuration. The ones I used are SPDT or change over relays - the ones with an 87a pin. The third relay for the indicators can be one of those & ignore the extra pin or get the standard relay (SPST).
I hope it's reasonably self explanatory but if you have questions feel free to ask.
Essentially what you have to do on the patrols is retain 12v on one side of the actuator while the relay attached to the function you want (lock/unlock) disconnects the 12v on it's side of the circuit and pulses it to ground.
The indicator circuit is required including the diodes to switch the indicators, and the diodes separate the indicator circuit the rest of the time so that your indicators behave normally rather than as hazard lights. A diode is just a device that allows current to flow in one direction & not the other. (If you haven't used them before an autoelec will have them as will Jaycar etc. The body of the diode is a cylinder with a band at one end. The band is the end of the diode that points toward the main wiring harness. ie. in the diagram ->|- on the actual device appears -[ |]-
I'll leave it for now as if the pager goes off I'll lose all this.
Dave (2)
Footnote:
Colour codes
Main/Stripe
Pin 1 - Black (Gnd)
Pin 2 - Blue (Lock)
Pin 3 - White/Red (const 12v)
Pin 4 & 5 - Green with either red or yellow strip (indicators)
Pin 8 - Blue/Red (Unlock)
Last edited by davejones; 24th February 2012 at 03:56 PM.
Dynamco do the 1CL-001 kit which you could use with the first remote kit above.
It may just be cheaper to get a 4CL-002 which has the remote entry and 4 solenoids all as one kit. Give you a spare solenoid or two. Not sure which way the prices break down on that.
The connection will be slightly different. You shouldn't need the relays as they are built into the unit. You can probably get away without the indicator relay too, might need the diodes but I'm not sure until I check out the install paperwork on it.
Cheers for the posts guys....I havent contacted Nissan as yet, but was already under the impression that with one ky activated solenoid in the drivers door, that then unlocks all doors....I could get away with installing a remote activated solenoid in the drivers door, to unlock all doors.
It MAY just be a case of removing the key activated solenoid and replacing it in with the wireless unit....but until I get behind the door skin I won't know for sure.
The indicator flash feature isnt really critical, I just want to be able to get all the kids into the car, without walking round to unlock the drivers door. From what I have seen so far, a four solenoid unit may in fact be cheaper than a single solenoid unit.
Once again, thank you for the detailed posts and reference pictures...definately gives me something to start with.
Regards
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by robbo0001
which has the remote entry and 4 solenoids all as one kit. Give you a spare solenoid or two. Not sure which way the prices break down on that.
