What did you do to your Patrol today!

[MB]

Absolutely love that idea thanks Mat Mate!
I did have to look up the Tyre Pressure Monitoring System acronym at first I must admit


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[MudRunnerTD]

You could keep it simple from a plumbing point of view and use a cheap tpms as an in cab gauge for your airbags. No lines required just give the tpms reciever unit ignition power.

good to see you in the pages mate. Yes i agree, i did think that the other day MB when you first posted. as long as you can get the TPM into the line then it would be simple enough. I assume you are not looking to pump up or adjust on the fly then it is basic. Would not be that hard either way though surely.

[MB]

Certainly not wanting/needing to pump up on the fly again GQ this time Daz Mate!
Since Mat’s simply brilliant intervention I’ll kindly ask Phil’s team at the 4WD Shed if they can position the standard valves either side roughly off my nuffy slider top tray 45 degree brackets.
TPMS caps on there after and all should be stealthy sweet indoors thanks please orificer


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[PeeBee]

Took the truck down to Dobinsons for new rear springs 2 weeks ago and on the way down the water detector light flickered, and when coming home it was running rough at idle. Decided to swap out the two filters in the fuel line. So, got them out and replaced in about an hour,(no water evident, fuel clean and clear) then 7 hrs later got the truck running. Would not start, cranked but no go. So started at the lift pump and up to the IP, and out the other side to the fuel return line at the tank. There was a blockage of some sort. Long story short, the IP solenoid valve 12V supply was flickering then dropped to zero. Checked fuse on the main engine control circuit, all good - one of them powers the solenoid. Anyway, ran a 12V jumper from the battery POS to the solenoid and off she fired. . Initially I thought I had a fuel line kink or similar, but at least I know for sure the hoses are kink free. So, happy to some degree at least it isn't something major, but now more electrical tracing to sort this one out. I head back to the mine Wed morning so for now the problem can sit until i get back.

Also bought one of the bent adjust rear diff control arms to get a bit of clearance over the belly tank - might throw that in tomorrow as a reward for todays jink around.

[mudski]

Took the truck down to Dobinsons for new rear springs 2 weeks ago and on the way down the water detector light flickered, and when coming home it was running rough at idle. Decided to swap out the two filters in the fuel line. So, got them out and replaced in about an hour,(no water evident, fuel clean and clear) then 7 hrs later got the truck running. Would not start, cranked but no go. So started at the lift pump and up to the IP, and out the other side to the fuel return line at the tank. There was a blockage of some sort. Long story short, the IP solenoid valve 12V supply was flickering then dropped to zero. Checked fuse on the main engine control circuit, all good - one of them powers the solenoid. Anyway, ran a 12V jumper from the battery POS to the solenoid and off she fired. . Initially I thought I had a fuel line kink or similar, but at least I know for sure the hoses are kink free. So, happy to some degree at least it isn't something major, but now more electrical tracing to sort this one out. I head back to the mine Wed morning so for now the problem can sit until i get back.

Also bought one of the bent adjust rear diff control arms to get a bit of clearance over the belly tank - might throw that in tomorrow as a reward for todays jink around.

Electrical gremlins are fun hey Phil...

[PeeBee]

Electrical gremlins are fun hey Phil...

I am well used to them as generally I generate them! This one however looks like something in the Brunswick loom splice. i will think it thru - either leave it like it is with a simple jumper, or dig into it and resolve. If i don't fix it, the turbo timer won't work, and its probably not roadworthy either as I can't turn it off with the key? Its got to be simple, just well hidden at the moment and my mind is not in the space to sort it right now.

[MB]

Decided to inspect the old highway GQ’s snorkel and entire air intake system for potential water intake on future river crossings.
Bloody glad I did, the stupid snorkel design doesn’t even connect to the OEM dust catcher guard thingy.


Wasn’t impressed either with the amount of daylight that can be seen through almost every joint on the whole OEM airbox.

Bugger it all off I decided and got to grinding off the plastic snorkel flange and blasted a hole big enough for a 4” elbow to pass through.


Shifted and rerouted the vacuum system back towards the firewall and re bolted the radiator overflow bottle rearwards back into the OEM vacuum position.

Ratting through my pile of shed junk found the old whopping Donaldson cannister filter from the 6.5 Chev GU original purchase days before its Millweld upgrades.

Should hopefully do the trick and only cost 2 x new silicone elbows to the little Safari turbo below and a 180 degree silicone bend, all other bits were hoarded perfectly over the years


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[mudski]

Is there enough room to take the lid off the new air housing to inspect the element?


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[MB]

Heaps thanks for double checking Mate
Did stress myself to near death all afternoon though testing/testing exactly that


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[PeeBee]

Bugger @MB, I sent all those air filter elements back to BD with the junk from the vee belt to serpy conversion on the basis neither of us would need that size again. Just hate that! I guess it was a fair swap for an IP though!!!