What did you do to your Patrol today!

[MB]

In fairness Philstar, I thought we almost agreed together that my nuffy ACDelco 88C OEM 6.5 TS pair were good to go all year round, all conditions and built to last real dinkum yanks swear by apparently?
I have applied my yanky OEM TS learnings to other owned TD42 single TS’s and have proven certainly to myself the same outcome in our neck of the woods :-)
Save some weight, there’s room for one more brew in the box right there brother :-)




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[PeeBee]

The only thing I will say about thermostats is that they are reliable devices with good temp activation repeatability unless something goes wrong with the spring/diaphragm. Whether the 88 degC is right for each vehicle is another matter. I think the general cooling setup for the GQ and now the s/c motor is always going to be marginal. I am running the standard thermostats as installed and yet to put the cooler ones in . BD have used the cooler ones for vehicles running around in the heat all the time, which isn't my situation. I doubt very much that a 10degC lowering of the TS is going to make a big difference to how MY engine will run because its generating that much heat its going to get to that 90deg optimum temp anyway, maybe 60 secs later. Its still early days with this set-up so will see how it runs over the summer at speed, in the bush and on the freeway before doing any more changes - one thing at a time - still sorting out the interchiller system for one. I had my radiator temps at 125C with the n/a set-up,at the top of one of those hills on our last outing, so its pretty obvious the TS is not the determinant of the cool running, its airflow, and radiator area coupled with good airflow design and reduced heatsink effect from good core modelling and an optimum water flow rate from the pump, plus limited cavitation and air bubbles around the water jacket- this is supposedly the tack taken by Adrad with this monster alum jobbie i have - yet to see if they have nailed my application.

I also am running a soluble oil coolant instead of the normal 50:50 glycol, and this has better heat transfer properties than the glycol plus has other advantages, but again, it hasn't been proven yet if the claims will result in a prize or not.

Weight reduction, yes, its a focus for sure, working thru the purge all day today and some tomorrow. My focus is not exceeding the actual carrying capacity of the tyres, as I blew a Wrangler to bits heading into Burgoynes on one trip and am sure it was was due to too much weight and just the wrong speed and approach onto a rock. So, if 88C works for you, thats great. i am running 88C until i can prove the need to change, and then it would be the 68 or 72C units i have.

[MB]

I’m no doubt crazier than you old mate in the old tucker truck lugging extra frypans, woks and pots in case one or three of each isn’t enough for blow ins etc...:-)
At what point do we both start carrying extra springs and shocks and chass-eez to backup the heavy haulage needs of our overthinking together honestly :-)


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[PeeBee]

Good points, its just how we are 'wired', stitch in time, be prepared etc. I am compensating for the weight as you mention with heavier springs, airbags, chassis rail stiffener plates, transfer case reduction kit, bigger engine, bigger brakes and comprehensive communication systems for a bit more security. Luckily it is self limiting to some degree either by space or legislation, so for me the journey is just about complete - well thats what I am trying to convince myself about

[Mickhead]

Not a fan of zucchinis myself onion slices work better what shyts me about carrying spares is that the one part you are not having on board will poo itself.

[10G]

took the patrol out for a drive today, nice & sunny, quiet roads. I must have gotten used to the old girl prior to covid coz I drive her now and think, gee this old thing is well put together. Comfortable, responsive, secure on the road. Lucky me.

[PeeBee]

I was getting set to look at the mounting bracket for the 12v vac pump, and knocked it off the bench, hit the concrete and broken the inlet spigot off the pump - FAAAARRRRK me. So onto Proflow to see about a spare part, NUP, nothing listed anywhere, no service kits, nothing, so they have to send off to the manufacturer in China to see what is possible. Anyway, decided to head it off at the 'pass' so fabricated a replacement using a heavy plated washer, tapped a 1/4" bsp thread into the washer and screwed in a brass 90 deg elbow complete with barb. If Proflow come back with a fitting I will swap it out, but right now looks like its a winner. Also mounted the fire extinguisher next to front seat - poor thing has been relocated that many times, noticed the internal pressure is approaching the 'replace band, so next time they are on special will swap it out. Its location also helps to hide the suspension base skirt
Broken inlet.JPGRepaired inlet.JPGSeat and extinguisher.JPG

[Mickhead]

Got bored in lockdown wired the light bar, via a hole in the roof. Replaced the rear 2 inch king springs with 3 inch ones because the arse end was drooping. I hope they settle a bit because it looks like a 80s valiant wog chariot.
Washed it.5462E763-86EF-4F6A-BCF8-F1EC767C63F9.jpeg

[PeeBee]

Fabricated a SS spray bar to mist the radiator if it gets too hot, The jets are still 'in the post' so will put the finished item up when complete. It runs off a small Silvan diaphragm pump rated at 2.8LPM, and 45PSI, however the orifice size on each of the 4 sprays is 0.3mm, so I believe this will do a good job and consume minimal water - its an 'on demand set-up', so I will only need it if I start heading into the 100 - 110DegC territory. The water will hit both the radiator core and the 2nd condenser that is part of the A/C and Interchiller system.

[Dasa]

After reading some horror stories about needing to take out the gearbox after pulling out the clutch fork when replacing the rubber boot today I carefully cut off the old Clutch boot with side cutters then removed the slave cylinder and carefully slid on the new clutch boot.
Safe to say a little research on these forums probably just saved me a lot of work.
IMG_20200829_120315_6.jpgIMG_20200829_121457_9.jpg

Handbreak cable just broke so that is next on the never ending list and it looks like that requires removing the tail shaft.
Is that just a case of doing it back up nice and tight with some locktight when done?