What did you do to your Patrol today!

[PeeBee]

Yeah 4inch pipe is supposed to be 102mm OD. Same as 102mm ID silicone. But this pipe measures 99.5. Not much but enough to not seal good enough. So I’ve had to use some sos tape to space it out, clamp the home hose, then I used more sos tape on the end of the hose and onto the pipe. Sealing it up good.
I wonder if this is the cause of the turbo leaking oil on the outlet side. The inlet is dry of oil as the catch can is doing its job, but the outlet and inter cooler have oil right through it. Not a lot but it’s visible when you remove one of the inter cooler hoses.
Not sure if this is normal though.


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Mudski, there is no longer 4" anything. Its either 100NB(nominal bore ) pipe which has differing wall thickness depending on the schedule or pressure rating, so it could be 3mm or 4.5 or 6 or 8,,,Wall thickness,, the point being it is a nominal dimension because it is a hot formed product, so internal dimension will vary a bit, but the OD will grow more than the ID - if that makes sense? Now there is 100mm tube which is a cold drawn product and is dimensionally accurate on the OD, and its ID will shrink as the wall thickness increases. So, if you measure 99.5mm on the OD its odds on to be 100mm tube. Nominal ID would then be twice whatever the wall thickness is. If the silicone tubing is still made to imperial, then there is your problem, and the only way out is to squash it with the hose clamp to get the seal. Hope this helps in some way, but not intended to do your head in!!!

[Bidja]

Mark, I am sure you will remove the cooler and give her a good flush out as the oil residue around the place probably caught some of the crap being sucked in mate.

[mudski]

Mudski, there is no longer 4" anything. Its either 100NB(nominal bore ) pipe which has differing wall thickness depending on the schedule or pressure rating, so it could be 3mm or 4.5 or 6 or 8,,,Wall thickness,, the point being it is a nominal dimension because it is a hot formed product, so internal dimension will vary a bit, but the OD will grow more than the ID - if that makes sense? Now there is 100mm tube which is a cold drawn product and is dimensionally accurate on the OD, and its ID will shrink as the wall thickness increases. So, if you measure 99.5mm on the OD its odds on to be 100mm tube. Nominal ID would then be twice whatever the wall thickness is. If the silicone tubing is still made to imperial, then there is your problem, and the only way out is to squash it with the hose clamp to get the seal. Hope this helps in some way, but not intended to do your head in!!!

The pipe you speak of is different to what is sold for exhaust and also, applications such as this. The pipe is made at 102mm or 4inch OD. In the exhaust industry anyway, I sell mild steel, aluminised and stainless steel daily. All have 1.6mm wall thickness. We, at work, at one stage decided to import from another, ahem asian company, we got samples first and their pipe was marked as 4inch, or 102mm. But was actually 100mm. The issue there was no expanded couplers, joiners, elbows, flex joins anything we had in our stock which is made to correct specs in 4inch would be a correct fit. Let alone the quality of steel work horrendous.
So. With all silicone tubing, which we make, import, sell and export ourselves to most resellers you see online and in stores, its all made to the exact specs. 4inch ID or 102mm.

[mudski]

I mentioned the turbo bearing, as if the bearings were oil fed like mine, the seals may have gone and could throw oil. May not be the case for your build.

Any nasties might have just blown right on thru. Limited sand /dust for you maybe.

Guess Radius LS1 be one up from Fatz or a big bgrrr (cyclonic) from Donaldson.

Yeah possible. Im not really up to speed on this part mate. The Radius LS1 box looks much better, or going a different air box way again.

[PeeBee]

The pipe you speak of is different to what is sold for exhaust and also, applications such as this. The pipe is made at 102mm or 4inch OD. In the exhaust industry anyway, I sell mild steel, aluminised and stainless steel daily. All have 1.6mm wall thickness. We, at work, at one stage decided to import from another, ahem asian company, we got samples first and their pipe was marked as 4inch, or 102mm. But was actually 100mm. The issue there was no expanded couplers, joiners, elbows, flex joins anything we had in our stock which is made to correct specs in 4inch would be a correct fit. Let alone the quality of steel work horrendous.
So. With all silicone tubing, which we make, import, sell and export ourselves to most resellers you see online and in stores, its all made to the exact specs. 4inch ID or 102mm.

OK, gotcha, hope I never come across it in an industrial environment thats for sure.

[PeeBee]

Installed the trailing arm spacers. Took about 5 hours all up and decided to trim the front of the passenger side mount to maintain a good clearance. Took it for a spin, seemed fine, maybe nose appeared to be pointing a bit higher than before - maybe not? Straight forward job, just need a trolley jack, couple of bottle jacks, a safety stand under the chassis, 24mm and 14mm sockets and you are away. Front mudflaps are going back on and with luck the wheels should now clear them.

[Hodge]

Installed the trailing arm spacers. Took about 5 hours all up and decided to trim the front of the passenger side mount to maintain a good clearance. Took it for a spin, seemed fine, maybe nose appeared to be pointing a bit higher than before - maybe not? Straight forward job, just need a trolley jack, couple of bottle jacks, a safety stand under the chassis, 24mm and 14mm sockets and you are away. Front mudflaps are going back on and with luck the wheels should now clear them.

Good job . Still have to do mine.

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[PeeBee]

I started out with about 1o to 12mm clearance between the bar in front of the diff - can't remember its name for the life of me but its one of the ones I replaced with the 4140 units, and the bracket that is welded to the diff housing. I carefully used a 5" angle grinder with a thin cutting blade to trim this protrusion back to give me about 20mm clearance on both of the legs. It took all of 5 minutes but just watch the clearance on the knuckle as its very close to the blade and easily nicked - I did this a couple of times but nothing that would affect its strength.

A short podgie bar and a 8mm punch will also help. Taking you time you will find the job easy and slow. You may need 2 bottle jacks also, one to use under the front bolted connection on the arm and the other on top of the arm, mounted up into the shocker tower, to push the rear hole into alignment. I greased my bolts up and all they took was a light tap to get them into place. I also greased the two rubber mounts donuts on the rear spigot to make the assy slide in a bit easier. The front anti sway bar need to have the vertical mount rod wound down as the assy wont bolt back up to the control arm as its pushed forward. I also measured the front tailshaft as being 20mm further pulled apart based on the witness mark where the slide joint sits.

[Bidja]

Phil the only thing that bothers me with with spacing fwd the radius arm is that increased extended length position of the front uni drive slide joint (less bearing load face/area). Maybe not an issue but having no mud flaps does not really bother me. Might rig up something up off the side rails. I also have 2 " lift, use 2 deg caster correction with 33s. I will leave mine as is. My only concern is not being able run chains on frot wheels, but those days are not common for me now.

[PeeBee]

Phil the only thing that bothers me with with spacing fwd the radius arm is that increased extended length position of the front uni drive slide joint (less bearing load face/area). Maybe not an issue but having no mud flaps does not really bother me. Might rig up something up off the side rails. I also have 2 " lift, use 2 deg caster correction with 33s. I will leave mine as is. My only concern is not being able run chains on frot wheels, but those days are not common for me now.

Look, all good points. I think there is more than adequate engaged length to handle the torque to the front wheel, but saying that its not how it was designed to begin with and I dont know how much 'over design factor of safety' is in the original design either. I am running a similar setup to yours, maybe 3" on the front, castor correction bushes and 33". Running chains for me is a potential issue on both front and back when it gets a bit hairy. I also have noticed the job the mud flaps actually do in keeping the mud and stones off the ARB side rails and step - not much door clearance to step and a bit of paint crunching does no one any good. I will see how this pans out and worse thing that happens is I break something and come home in rear wheel drive, and then have to get a custom jobbie.