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Thread: What did you do to your Patrol today!

  1. #9301
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Geez PeeBee, What are you like?

    You never considered that connecting a 300A output to a 120A max input ctek smartpass to be a tad unwise. I am shaking my head slowly from side to side in disbelief. Bet that's something you wont try again in a hurry!

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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  3. #9302
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    Yes, was a brain fart moment for sure. I wasn't expecting a full 300amps into the rear bank, and unfortunately I didn't have the ammeter connected as needed to extend the in cab wiring, so charged on with this alternate job - boy, should have gone to Jaycar and bought the damn cable. Anyway, its another lesson I guess. Looking around for a different system now, seems there are a few on the market.

  4. #9303
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeeBee View Post
    . Looking around for a different system now, seems there are a few on the market.
    What batteries are you charging with such a powerful alternator? I cant imagine needing 300A for anthing other than a large Lithium battery bank. This might make interesting reading for you if you haen't seen it already.
    https://expeditionportal.com/forum/t...y-bank.142462/

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

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    Moderator MudRunnerTD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeeBee View Post
    Yes, was a brain fart moment for sure. I wasn't expecting a full 300amps into the rear bank, and unfortunately I didn't have the ammeter connected as needed to extend the in cab wiring, so charged on with this alternate job - boy, should have gone to Jaycar and bought the damn cable. Anyway, its another lesson I guess. Looking around for a different system now, seems there are a few on the market.
    I reckon ditch the Ctek completely. You don't need a smart charging system with 300amp supply IMO. Just run some 90mmsq and an isolation switch between batteries for safety.

    This is my 600amp continuous rated switch to my 24v system. It will handle your system all day.



    Good luck mate... I'm am happy to hear from anyone that says this is bad advice. I have no idea, it.makes sense to me though.



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  7. #9305
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD View Post
    Good luck mate... I'm am happy to hear from anyone that says this is bad advice. I have no idea, it.makes sense to me though.
    I suspect it depends upon the intended usage. Knowing your love of winching I suspect yours is setup to allow for extended winching, which seems to make sense for me too although it might depend upon what battery capacity you are putting it through. Chucking 300A into a 100Ah battery for example, whilst pulling several hundred amps out of it may or may not be a recipe for short battery life. Not sure really. When you are using it like that does the battery get very hot. Have you had that set up for long & used it much? Does it do what you want? Bueseas switch is good gear, hopefully it is one of the models with alternator protection built in so you can switch it whilst the engine is running without frying the alternator diodes.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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  8. #9306
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    What batteries are you charging with such a powerful alternator? I cant imagine needing 300A for anthing other than a large Lithium battery bank. This might make interesting reading for you if you haen't seen it already.
    https://expeditionportal.com/forum/t...y-bank.142462/
    Yes am already looking at Blueseas as either a simple switch like Darren has or a 500a rated unit with some basic switching. Regards application, I have the system configured for what I need with the weak link being simply the control device capacity. I have 400ah of a hybrid agm battery bank that is set up to run a warn 15000lb winch for extended periods if required plus a coffee machine which is life sustaining. I would not spend any more of your time evaluating my system as the demands are far greater than your setup and totally differently focused. I am going back to a simpler more robust system as I don't need the sophistication of trying to run a big battery bank off a small alternator. If I wanted that style I would have gone to a Sterling Power system. The solar setup at 400w will also now be setup on its own controller as opposed to the one super control option from deter. What can you recommend just for the solar side of things Cuppa? Appreciate the input for sure.Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD View Post
    I reckon ditch the Ctek completely. You don't need a smart charging system with 300amp supply IMO. Just run some 90mmsq and an isolation switch between batteries for safety.

    This is my 600amp continuous rated switch to my 24v system. It will handle your system all day.



    Good luck mate... I'm am happy to hear from anyone that says this is bad advice. I have no idea, it.makes sense to me though.



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    Agree Darren, will see what my existing manual isolation switch is rated at that was in the circuit originally to allow emerg isolation of the front to back battery setup, then decide if the Blueseas upgrade goes manual like yours or slightly mote control with 500a capacity. Thanks for the quick response also.

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  11. #9308
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    I suspect it depends upon the intended usage. Knowing your love of winching I suspect yours is setup to allow for extended winching, which seems to make sense for me too although it might depend upon what battery capacity you are putting it through. Chucking 300A into a 100Ah battery for example, whilst pulling several hundred amps out of it may or may not be a recipe for short battery life. Not sure really. When you are using it like that does the battery get very hot. Have you had that set up for long & used it much? Does it do what you want? Bueseas switch is good gear, hopefully it is one of the models with alternator protection built in so you can switch it whilst the engine is running without frying the alternator diodes.
    Battery life is largely determined by depth of discharge, and some other contributing factors of lesser importance. Framing this simply, for winching it's about amps out verses amps in. If the winch is pulling 300amps and you are supplying 300 amps there is no detrimental effect. If the winch draws 400amps, them battery voltage will fall, winch will start to overheat as it is a simple watts equals volts x amps equation. If your battery cables between alternator and battery are undersized, volt drop and higher heat build up, more resistance and the spiral downwards begins. Similarly with the supply from battery bank to winch. Don't confuse amp/Jr. With cca. The cca is the capacity of the battery to expend high amp discharge over short periods of time, as opposed to a/Hr capacity for lower current draw over extended periods - two entirely different units of measurement and frankly different construction formats within each style of battery.
    The battery is best thought of as a bucket and the alternator the pump. The alternator provides the flowrate in Volts and the battery the pressure or head in amps to do the work (I think that's right, could be arse about??). When these flows are optimised there is minimal net effect on battery or bucket capacity.

    Lastly, if you had an alternator supplying a winch in excess of its draw, the motor would not get as hot, one of the reasons why the duty rating of electric dc winches is so low is because the alternator at 100amps can't replenish the winch draw down at say 400amp, hence the winch draws higher current to satisfy the torque requirement, and the resultant heat build up and requirement to rest the winch to protect the winch windings and insulation and also to reduce the internal resistance from the heat. In my earlier days I spent a bit of time working with large dc drives, circa 400hp plus and these issues were fundamental parameters we dealt with including supplementary casing cooling and heat extraction using refrigerant methods - challenging stuff well in excess of the duty issues of our little winch motors
    Last edited by PeeBee; 7th January 2020 at 07:04 AM.

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  13. #9309
    Expert Yeti's Beast's Avatar
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    Praise the lord, finally someone that understands


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    PeeBee (7th January 2020)

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    I’ve seen so many people make the mistake of using deep cycle batteries for a winch too. The winch is basically a starter motor so it needs a cca rating to supply high amps to spin at the correct speed which in turn reduces current draw. If it runs too slow, heat builds up, resistance builds up etc


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