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10th July 2018, 09:45 PM
#8441
Originally Posted by
Yeti's Beast
Your braver than me, I think I would of set it on fire.
Now while you have it apart please have a look and tell me why my air control flaps rattle.
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Not sure mate. Mine don't rattle.
Originally Posted by
jack
Yeah I installed one ages ago Jack. It actually just slides in the a/c evap box. Easily accessible.
Originally Posted by
Bacho86
You are a brave, brave man!!
You upgrading to a S4 dash whistle you’re at it?
lol
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Yeah I thought about it. But I need to replace the rear bumper first.
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10th July 2018 09:45 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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10th July 2018, 09:48 PM
#8442
Originally Posted by
Rossco
Ooh got job Markie, just make sure you do up those hose clamps
. . .
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I will have to remember a lot when putting it all back in.
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10th July 2018, 11:59 PM
#8443
.........
Originally Posted by
mudski
Oh god!
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Like you said Mr Mark, great time to clean up all aftermarket wires whilst in there too, top idea/work!
Reckon I’d slack off refitting it all though and just cut a Bunnings checker plate tradie tool box in half longways as a new robust dash for ease of opening next time around. Would probably loose the damn lock keys again no doubt knowing me :-)
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Yeti's Beast (11th July 2018)
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11th July 2018, 08:13 AM
#8444
Originally Posted by
MB
Like you said Mr Mark, great time to clean up all aftermarket wires whilst in there too, top idea/work!
Reckon I’d slack off refitting it all though and just cut a Bunnings checker plate tradie tool box in half longways as a new robust dash for ease of opening next time around. Would probably loose the damn lock keys again no doubt knowing me :-)
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Haha! While I have the heater box out I will replace all the foam bits too. Wish I had more time because now I want to rip the entire interior out now, lay some sound deadening down and put new carpet in. But Licola is coming up and the boss wants her garage space back.
Now I have this apart, I really cannot see how you can remove the heater box without removing every first as some have said on Facebook. Physically impossible.
Last edited by mudski; 11th July 2018 at 08:16 AM.
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rusty_nail (11th July 2018)
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11th July 2018, 08:58 AM
#8445
Legendary
Yeah that's what i did with mine replaced all the bits that seal the joints as the factory foam backed tape turns to dust. . . And sound deadening used PingJing chinese version of dynamat but cheaper and just as good. .
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11th July 2018, 04:49 PM
#8446
Patrol Freak
Originally Posted by
mudski
Yeah I had a slight hint of rage flush through me when I first read it. Then I realised it was a/c evaporator that comes out easy. Hopefully tonight I'll get the lot out including the heater box.
Mark, Thought the heater core was housed in the cradle behind the heater directional flap control box up in behind center console for GUIV?
This is certainly where my radiator hot water flow and return pipes go.
Is this the same configuration for all GUs wagons?
2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job
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11th July 2018, 05:06 PM
#8447
Originally Posted by
Bidja
Mark, Thought the heater core was housed in the cradle behind the heater directional flap control box up in behind center console for GUIV?
This is certainly where my radiator hot water flow and return pipes go.
Is this the same configuration for all GUs wagons?
Yeah see in the pic of my mess. The white box houses the heater core. The black box to the left houses the a/c evaporator and to the left of that is the fan motor and box.
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11th July 2018, 05:15 PM
#8448
Propped up the patrol to check the wheel brgs adjustment - all good. Swapped out the damaged shocker - total write-off. Measured up the spring length on the brake proportional valve and its a weird setup. The free spring length is 195mm, should be in the range of 208 to 220 by the manual. Its an 'tension spring' meanings its pulling the two spring mount points together, and I can't see how i am going to get it anywhere near the ideal. Right now the lever on the arm is sitting off the actual hex head bolt that restricts movement. Any help would be appreciated. I am running an extension bracket due to the 3" nominal lift in the back, should this be removed - if I do remove it the spring will come under more load and try to shorten its length.
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11th July 2018, 05:19 PM
#8449
From what I remember Phil the arm and spring should be at right angles to each other with the vehicle unladen. There is a pdf on the interwebs somewhere about this....
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11th July 2018, 05:26 PM
#8450
Originally Posted by
mudski
From what I remember Phil the arm and spring should be at right angles to each other with the vehicle unladen. There is a pdf on the interwebs somewhere about this....
Thanks Mark, they are pretty much as you mention, however Darren @MudRunnerTD directed me to the spring length parameter which is in the manual, hence where the lengths came from. Braking is a lot better now after a few klm;s on the new disks and pads, but there is still a front brake bias thats a bit out of kilter I reckon.
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