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Thread: What did you do to your Patrol today!

  1. #9241
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    I do agree these are heavy, but I love them. I keep all tools and parts in one draw and food in the other. Fridge is on top and caged, and while there little room left, its enough. But everything is safe and secure. And my wine and whiskey are bubble wrapped and stashed in the side pocket areas too!
    Quote Originally Posted by Rossco View Post
    Yeah I'm another fan of drawers one of the best things done to 4by 4 sure, love em. Each to their own can be a very personal thing when it comes to packing lol. . .
    While I don't share your enthusiasm for the draws, I agree on their convenience if it suits the person. Especially for longer travel / trips. I loved my draws at the start, neat and tidy setup. Especially cause I got them basically for nothing. But as time went on they began annoying the s**** out of me. lol
    Rossco nailed it, what works for others is a nuisance for the rest.


    Quote Originally Posted by FNQGU View Post
    That's where the idea came from mate - the weight compromise of the drawer system and then not being able to throw kids bikes in the back of the wagon anymore. Now I have a big pod setup where it all comes out in ten mins and I can still take a load of rubbish to the dump. Yep, there are still compromises (especially with the vehicle itself), but the pod is what it is all about.
    I've always used tubs, usually el cheapo bunnings junk, then later on upgraded to dearer longer lasting units. Call me a tubber if you will. lol Even after I got draws, I found my self packing food in a tub like I've always done. And at camp that food tub comes out and sits next to my table / cooking setup. This eliminates constantly going into the rear of the car, opening doors, draws, and rear bar swing away units ( another nuisance separate subject). If I'm staying for longer than a day / night I usually take the fridge out as well, especially in summer, so then none of it sits in a hot car. Easier access.
    And being a daily driver, when I come home those tubs come out in minutes and sit in the garage ready for next time.


    2005 TD42TI

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  3. #9242
    Patrol Freak 10G's Avatar
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    Yep, I'm a tubber as well. I've never had drawers. The first thing I did when I got the Patrol was build a rack for the rear of it. I have one drawer. I like tubs as I just take the entire thing out when camping.

    Here's an old pic, it's a bit fuller with stuff these days ...

    20160903_173431.jpg
    Last edited by 10G; 6th November 2019 at 12:05 PM. Reason: aded photo
    ..

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  5. #9243
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    Front wheel bearings got replaced.
    And just finished diff oils. Cogbox and transfer tomorrow as I had enough for one day lol.
    2005 TD42TI

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    FNQGU (6th November 2019), mudnut (6th November 2019), Yeti's Beast (6th November 2019)

  7. #9244
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    How often should you do your wheel bearings?? I got 165000 on the Patrol.
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  8. #9245
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10G View Post
    How often should you do your wheel bearings?? I got 165000 on the Patrol.
    I'm no expert on this mate. Someone more confident on this may answer. I don't know what regular interval is recommended.
    But I believe it depends on style, type of driving you put your vehicle through. If you're a constant mud, bog hole basher Id be looking at them more often for water ingress etc...
    Mine got re-packed at 90,000 and apparently looked good. Yesterday they got done at 140,000 and still looked ok but i got them replaced anyway. Under $200 for timken or nsk and while its all apart its a no brainer.
    I also checked mine for tightness very 10k or so...
    2005 TD42TI

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  10. #9246
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10G View Post
    How often should you do your wheel bearings?? I got 165000 on the Patrol.
    Bought my car at 153,000kms. Telstra records show that front bearings had been replaced at every 5000km service prior to me getting it! I suspect it was a case of the company (in Alice Springs) doing the service for Telstra making a bit extra - nothing was repaired, any issue - replacement parts fitted (including a brand new front diff & a radio just before Telstra got rid of it.

    Checked & repacked them just after I bought it & again when I fitted new pads & discs at 166,000k.
    Rechecked & repacked them again at 203,000 prior to commencing our current trip. They were still fine. However a wheel nut jammed on a stud (Chrome aftermarket 'blind studs I had fitted had chrome peel off inside, jamming the thread & making tightening or loosening impossible - result in a sheared off stud. Not impressed! Put original wheel nuts back on all round. Glad it happened at home. Have another full set of unused Huntsman chrome wheel nuts back home for all four wheels if anyone needs them & wants to take the risk!!

    Rear bearings were replaced at 203k - one side had blued up a little & the other side was showing minimal evidence of the oil seal leaking. Had a workshop do that job. They are much bigger than the fronts, but get a harder life if they are in a heavy vehicle. AFAIK they were the originals from the factory.

    I do carry a spare set of front bearings with us just in case, & once in a while check for looseness, but haven't found any yet. At 229k with much of the past 26k on rough dusty roads & a few water crossings I should probably do so again now whilst I have access to a concrete floor under cover. Have just added that task to my 230k service.

    Checking & re-packing is a bit time consuming, mucky, but not difficult. Buy some replacements plus inner seals & put a day aside for the job. After cleaning all the old grease off & eyeing the bearings up for any obvious damage, I check the cups with a fingernail. Replace if *any* ridge is felt. Replace seals anyway once the old ones are disturbed. Chances are the bearings will be fine & can be repacked & replaced. If so you have a set of spares for touring (but get a couple more seals). If not, you have what you need to finish the job.
    Last edited by Cuppa; 7th November 2019 at 11:26 PM.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, 240v, 3 Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2 lift, Lovells GVM upgrade, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697s, Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, Tyredog TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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  11. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Cuppa For This Useful Post:

    10G (8th November 2019), Hodge (8th November 2019)

  12. #9247
    Patrol Freak 10G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    Bought my car at 153,000kms. Telstra records show that front bearings had been replaced at every 5000km service prior to me getting it! I suspect it was a case of the company (in Alice Springs) doing the service for Telstra making a bit extra - nothing was repaired, any issue - replacement parts fitted (including a brand new front diff & a radio just before Telstra got rid of it.

    Checked & repacked them just after I bought it & again when I fitted new pads & discs at 166,000k.
    Rechecked & repacked them again at 203,000 prior to commencing our current trip. They were still fine. However a wheel nut jammed on a stud (Chrome aftermarket 'blind studs I had fitted had chrome peel off inside, jamming the thread & making tightening or loosening impossible - result in a sheared off stud. Not impressed! Put original wheel nuts back on all round. Glad it happened at home. Have another full set of unused Huntsman chrome wheel nuts back home for all four wheels if anyone needs them & wants to take the risk!!

    Rear bearings were replaced at 203k - one side had blued up a little & the other side was showing minimal evidence of the oil seal leaking. Had a workshop do that job. They are much bigger than the fronts, but get a harder life if they are in a heavy vehicle. AFAIK they were the originals from the factory.

    I do carry a spare set of front bearings with us just in case, & once in a while check for looseness, but haven't found any yet. At 229k with much of the past 26k on rough dusty roads & a few water crossings I should probably do so again now whilst I have access to a concrete floor under cover. Have just added that task to my 230k service.

    Checking & re-packing is a bit time consuming, mucky, but not difficult. Buy some replacements plus inner seals & put a day aside for the job. After cleaning all the old grease off & eyeing the bearings up for any obvious damage, I check the cups with a fingernail. Replace if *any* ridge is felt. Replace seals anyway once the old ones are disturbed. Chances are the bearings will be fine & can be repacked & replaced. If so you have a set of spares for touring (but get a couple more seals). If not, you have what you need to finish the job.
    Thanks for the info Cuppa.

    You fellas say you repack the bearings, but don't you have to remove the bearings to do that and aren't wheel bearings usually bloody hard to get off??? I've not looked at the Patrol bearings, but from the very little I've had experience with, I've had to whack new bearings on with a mallet in one case and in another we had to use an oxy to get some old ones off.
    ..

  13. #9248
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10G View Post
    Thanks for the info Cuppa.

    You fellas say you repack the bearings, but don't you have to remove the bearings to do that and aren't wheel bearings usually bloody hard to get off??? I've not looked at the Patrol bearings, but from the very little I've had experience with, I've had to whack new bearings on with a mallet in one case and in another we had to use an oxy to get some old ones off.
    When you repack the bearings you don't remove the 'cup', just the half with the rollers in it. No force required. Clean the cups in situ & then check. If OK just re-grease in situ.

    You might find this video useful in regard to what to expect to find. GQ & GU hubs are basically the same. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lt5jaIMhROE Video shows changing bearings, but if just repacking no driving out of the cups is required. If you do need to change bearings they should drive out with a drift fairly easily. Trick is to have things solidly on a couple of pieces to hardwood or similar to avoid 'bounce' when using the mallet. (Actually a club hammer with a couple of kilos in it is good - decisive blows, not wet lettuce taps) - bearing cup will come out with two or three blows if you move around the cup with each blow. I use a brass drift - less risk of damage to the bearing housing. Make sure the end of the drift is nice & square to avoid slipping off the edge of the cup. Something which would help the bloke in the video ....... once an old 'cup' has been removed it makes the perfect driver to put the new one in as he does (after lightly starting it with the hammer)..... but before doing that cut a slot through the wall of the old cup with an angle grinder. Works just the same but but makes removal once the new cup is fully home far easier, without risk of damaging the new cup in the process. If you have the disc laid on hardwood blocks either on a good solid bench, or a concrete floor, it will make the job easier over all, but also makes it easy to know when the new cup is fully home. You'll hear the tone change when knocking it in & it is as far as it will go.

    I made my own special tool to remove the bearing retainer. But after a couple of uses bought the proper thing - much better & cheap. eg. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hub-Adju...QAAOSwqr5duusm

    The two little screws which hold the bearing retainer from unscrewing don't need overtightening, but I always use a bit of blue loctite threadlocker on them just to be sure.

    A helper with clean hands to take photos at each stage of removal is handy, so you don't get your phone/camera covered in grease. Have plenty of rags handy & I like to wear some of those rubber gloves that supercheap, repco & the likes sell.
    Last edited by Cuppa; 8th November 2019 at 12:10 PM.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, 240v, 3 Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2 lift, Lovells GVM upgrade, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697s, Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, Tyredog TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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  14. #9249
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    When you repack the bearings you don't remove the 'cup', just the half with the rollers in it. No force required. Clean the cups in situ & then check. If OK just re-grease in situ.

    You might find this video useful in regard to what to expect to find. GQ & GU hubs are basically the same. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lt5jaIMhROE Video shows changing bearings, but if just repacking no driving out of the cups is required. If you do need to change bearings they should drive out with a drift fairly easily. Trick is to have things solidly on a couple of pieces to hardwood or similar to avoid 'bounce' when using the mallet. (Actually a club hammer with a couple of kilos in it is good - decisive blows, not wet lettuce taps) - bearing cup will come out with two or three blows if you move around the cup with each blow. I use a brass drift - less risk of damage to the bearing housing. Make sure the end of the drift is nice & square to avoid slipping off the edge of the cup. Something which would help the bloke in the video ....... once an old 'cup' has been removed it makes the perfect driver to put the new one in as he does (after lightly starting it with the hammer)..... but before doing that cut a slot through the wall of the old cup with an angle grinder. Works just the same but but makes removal once the new cup is fully home far easier, without risk of damaging the new cup in the process. If you have the disc laid on hardwood blocks either on a good solid bench, or a concrete floor, it will make the job easier over all, but also makes it easy to know when the new cup is fully home. You'll hear the tone change when knocking it in & it is as far as it will go.

    I made my own special tool to remove the bearing retainer. But after a couple of uses bought the proper thing - much better & cheap. eg. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hub-Adju...QAAOSwqr5duusm

    The two little screws which hold the bearing retainer from unscrewing don't need overtightening, but I always use a bit of blue loctite threadlocker on them just to be sure.

    A helper with clean hands to take photos at each stage of removal is handy, so you don't get your phone/camera covered in grease. Have plenty of rags handy & I like to wear some of those rubber gloves that supercheap, repco & the likes sell.
    Ahhhh, a picture or video, is worth a thousand words. Thanks Cuppa.
    ..

  15. #9250
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10G View Post
    Ahhhh, a picture or video, is worth a thousand words. Thanks Cuppa.
    You will need to buy new hub seals if you are going to repack the bearings, as the hub seal needs to be removed to get to the inner race.

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