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Changing out the front rotors yesterday arvo on the GU and got some good use out of a breaker bar and torque wrench that I made as a first year fitter and machinist apprentice (1971). Back then, they taught well, also made wheel pullers, vices, socket bar extension, ratchet wrenches etc, still use them.
The rotors were stubborn but got it sorted. Used a stand and square brass dolly under the wheel stud to crack and torque up (worked a treat). Off to another Doc appointment. Rear rotors and pads tonight.
Bought it off gumtree, brand new from a mob in Craigieburn. Had to cut around the towbar as it didn't have a cutout and needed to buy new lights as the ones it came with we illegal(only had indicators no brake or tail light), modified existing factory mud flaps to still fit and had to make up the number plate mount as there was no place for it. It's ok quality but tbh you get what you pay for, it was $800 including the spare tyre and Jerry can holder. Had to spend an extra$20 on number plate lights and $20 on led indicators but still happy with the result.
I wouldn't buy this unless you are prepared to get your hands dirty, it definitely didn't just bolt on lol
Early this morning, before going to bed, finished changing out front/rear disk brake rotors and pads, dba slotted T2 rotors and Bendix pads HD (rear) and some Ferodo 4WD (front).
New Jonny Tig intercooler did not arrive yesterday, that will have to wait a few weeks now "dissapointed". Has been in Sydney freight depot since Thursday 5.30am (slack).
Finally finished the TB42 Brake upgrade. Problems experienced were mostly due to lack of attention to detail. I had the calipers installed with the bleed nipples to the bottom, which is why I could not get the air out, so swapped them over to opposite sides of the truck, and bingo, job finished in 10 minutes!. Pedal feel is different to the single pots, less pressure on pedal for same brake effect, now looking to try and even the braking front to rear as it locks up the fronts in the wet under hard braking. Need to revisit the wheel bearing adjustm,ent also as the hubs were hot to touch after a 5klm drive.
Finally finished the TB42 Brake upgrade. Problems experienced were mostly due to lack of attention to detail. I had the calipers installed with the bleed nipples to the bottom, which is why I could not get the air out, so swapped them over to opposite sides of the truck, and bingo, job finished in 10 minutes!. Pedal feel is different to the single pots, less pressure on pedal for same brake effect, now looking to try and even the braking front to rear as it locks up the fronts in the wet under hard braking. Need to revisit the wheel bearing adjustm,ent also as the hubs were hot to touch after a 5klm drive.
Good that the brakes are coming together, the lessons we have forgotten until one does it again..-
Never have used torque wrench on any wheel bearing ever. Noted you have the GU wheel bearing pre load adjustment nut etc:
change out the nuts, lock washer and screws, plus buy a spanner that fits.
Firstly I do not over pack out hubs with grease maybe 3/4 max available space (with fingers) between races and and use say a 15"" bar to tighten up the pre-load adjust ring nut (only firm pressure to get a solid feel on ring nut and rotate hub back and forth as you tighten "subjective" but I rather have control of how it feels). Then have a look where the lock washer hole align up an back off slightly to locate the lock screws. And of course after 300-500km or so hundred kms check pre-load after settle in period. Yes heat is a good indicator, mine only ever get warm, not hot and of course no feel of bearing side slap with wheel jacked up off the ground.
Thanks John, yes it is a task and a half, especially when its been 25yrs since I did the last one!! Anyway, darren's build thread was a saving grace up to a point, then it was a case of trying to resolve the 'illogical' and this happened a couple of times. Happy its basically done, just need to find another window to revisit the wheel bearings, which should not take too long. The GU wheel brg nuts were standard on my model , July 1997, so last shipment from japan. They are simplicity, however the studs fitted to the spanners are very weak. I broke one and have since refurbished it using button head unbrako screws and this is much better, tapped the holes and loctited the screw into the spanner.
Unfortunately there is no actual rebuild or assy process avail for the TB42EI calipers, so simple stuff like orientation of the caliper for example would have been useful. The single pot nissan calipers have the LH/RH stamping, but the twin calipers made by Sumitomo don't have any hints at all. Anyway, lesson learned as you said, but don't expect I will need to do this job again., and if I do, someone else will be doing it! I will do a quick summary of the brake upgrade and post up later, warts and all.
Good reference material is hard to come by and it is so easy to forget the way it was. Once I did not even think anything of getting out the honing tool and drill to repair the master or wheel cyl and re kit them (mid 70s swb cruiser/drum brakes). Maybe the vehicles I have had for the last 20+ yrs have not been as old or have an easier life.
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Originally Posted by rusty_nail
