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Nice work hodge - did you connect that up to a 3 way switch by any chance? I tried doing mine on the weekend, but couldn't find a good spot to hook up the reverse activation in the front without cutting up the loom ... Best advice I could find was the "yellow wire" but there were lots to choose from! Cheers
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Yeah 3 way switch mate. on | Off | on
The switch basically dictates, what triggers the relay. One side it has the 12+ve coming off the reverse light at the back, and the other side of the switch comes right off the 6 way fused block, which is a constant positive. The light feed source is also from the aux. battery.
All of this is at the back of my car, so easy access to the reverse positive.
The switch basically dictates, what triggers the relay. One side it has the 12+ve coming off the reverse light at the back, and the other side of the switch comes right off the 6 way fused block, which is a constant positive. The light feed source is also from the aux. battery.
All of this is at the back of my car, so easy access to the reverse positive.
Definitely makes it easier to reverse at night.
Yeh I've got a similar set up too, my switch is up the front and I didn't run a trigger switching wire from the rear reverse light as I figured it would be easy enough to pick one from the front... Easy said than done though!
I might just have to start stripping back a few of the "yellow wires" from the front passenger kick panel and see which one triggers when reverse is selected
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2008 GU6 3.0 CRD AUTO | Safari Snorkel | 2" Ironman lift kit | Runva 11XP Winch | 33" MTZ's | Full Length Roof Rack | GME TX3200 | 30" LED Light Bar |
Would it be easier to simply go right to the source on the gear box ? Pretty sure there is wire on the gear box which is the reverse trigger one?
I may be wrong.
Would it be easier to simply go right to the source on the gear box ? Pretty sure there is wire on the gear box which is the reverse trigger one?
I may be wrong.
Yeh that was certainly my intention!! But I couldn't decipher a wiring diagram that matched.
After searching on the forum and Google, the best I could find was "yellow wire" in the passenger kick panel - unfortunately I couldn't see a plain yellow wire; a few yellow wires with various coloured stripes though -- so that'll be where I'll have start -- unless there are any better suggestions...
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2008 GU6 3.0 CRD AUTO | Safari Snorkel | 2" Ironman lift kit | Runva 11XP Winch | 33" MTZ's | Full Length Roof Rack | GME TX3200 | 30" LED Light Bar |
Yeh that was certainly my intention!! But I couldn't decipher a wiring diagram that matched.
After searching on the forum and Google, the best I could find was "yellow wire" in the passenger kick panel - unfortunately I couldn't see a plain yellow wire; a few yellow wires with various coloured stripes though -- so that'll be where I'll have start -- unless there are any better suggestions...
If you have a multimeter with the 'continuity' function it would make it easier to find which one of those yellow ones it is. It would also save you from having to strip each of the wires like you mentioned.
The switch basically dictates, what triggers the relay. One side it has the 12+ve coming off the reverse light at the back, and the other side of the switch comes right off the 6 way fused block, which is a constant positive. The light feed source is also from the aux. battery.
All of this is at the back of my car, so easy access to the reverse positive.
Definitely makes it easier to reverse at night.
I just used a two way off on switch. So when in reverse the light comes on, when the switch is in the off position. When switched to on, it comes on and also the rev lights.. no biggie.
Replaced my faulty fuel sender that in turn fixed the dreaded sub tank fault light on the dash.
I had to cut out the floor to get the sender out due to having long range tank installed. Nothing some sheet metal and silicon couldn't fix though.
And put on a hinge extension on the small barn door 20151209_150235.jpgAttachment 6317220151209_150856.jpg
Replaced my faulty fuel sender that in turn fixed the dreaded sub tank fault light on the dash.
I had to cut out the floor to get the sender out due to having long range tank installed. Nothing some sheet metal and silicon couldn't fix though.
And put on a hinge extension on the small barn door 20151209_150235.jpgAttachment 6317220151209_150856.jpg
Next up you'll want to do the small rear door strut,
great mod keeps door open when patrol is on an angle
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there