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Thread: What did you do to your Patrol today!

  1. #8361
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    A couple of months ago I scored some 6" Kenwood speakers from Supercheap that were marked down from $70 to $30 and then I got another 40% off so they were only $18 per pair. I also bought a $10 set of plastic tools for removing door trims. Today I replaced all four of the stock speakers (Clarion branded with paper elements) with the Kenwood ones and I'm happy to say that I managed to do it without breaking any of the door trims or the "Christmas Tree" attachment thingys. It took about 45 min for the first one as it took me a while to work out how to get the door trims off but it got easier from there and the last one only took about 20 min to remove trim, remove speaker and cut existing connector off, solder on new speaker, install speaker, replace door trim). The sound quality is so much better and I can turn it all the way up on the stock head unit without it distorting. Now I just need to keep an eye out for a new head unit and I am still deciding if I am going to add an amp as well.

  2. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Big Gags For This Useful Post:

    GQtdauto (13th May 2018), MB (14th May 2018)

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  4. #8362
    Expert Bidja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    Just generally... The plate that bent were of 6mm steel plate too. I just bought a Superior Engineering 4340 comp spec drag link and tie rod. Lifetime warranty against bending it so it was a no brainer....
    Yeh, have spoken with them and yep they say they don't bend and covered under warranty, this is fair enough. The old pitman arm steering box would get a pounding if there was that much kinetic energy needing to be dissipated..

    Each to their own, but IMHO, I prefer a plate in this location to provide some general protection and be used as a deflector of sticks/logs from being thrown up in to the drive pulleys and fan belt region, especially whilst reversing out over crappy ground cover situation.. Has happened to me once and had a hell of time had removing a stick..
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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    Grumpz mudnut's Avatar
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    Finally fitted a new piston in the front D/S brake calliper. When I fitted new discs and pads a while ago, I found the bottom of the rubber boot was ripped and had allowed moisture to get in and cause the piston to rust along the seal.
    " I know nothing! NOTHING!!! "

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    Expert Bidja's Avatar
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    Disassembled my vnt turbo actuator rod and with the liberal use of some Mil spec CLP "clean lubricate preserve solution" got my turbo actuator rod adjuster working and now can change its length to bring on boost earlier. Set the actuator lever up to hit stop by measurement (inches of mercury-vacuum) with the new mityvac hand pressure/vac pump that arrived today Good kit can use to bleed brakes and clutch as well.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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    MB (18th May 2018)

  10. #8365
    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Gags View Post
    A couple of months ago I scored some 6" Kenwood speakers from Supercheap that were marked down from $70 to $30 and then I got another 40% off so they were only $18 per pair. I also bought a $10 set of plastic tools for removing door trims. Today I replaced all four of the stock speakers (Clarion branded with paper elements) with the Kenwood ones and I'm happy to say that I managed to do it without breaking any of the door trims or the "Christmas Tree" attachment thingys. It took about 45 min for the first one as it took me a while to work out how to get the door trims off but it got easier from there and the last one only took about 20 min to remove trim, remove speaker and cut existing connector off, solder on new speaker, install speaker, replace door trim). The sound quality is so much better and I can turn it all the way up on the stock head unit without it distorting. Now I just need to keep an eye out for a new head unit and I am still deciding if I am going to add an amp as well.
    Fitted some 6.5 in speakers all around a year or so back one of the better mods.

    Tomorrow I'll be taken a bit of boost out of the beast, the guys that did the head must of fixed a suspected leak I thought I had so will back it off fro 25psi ay 100mph to about 15psi at 110 mph or Hume hwy running, then fiddle with Dawes as suggested by @mudski, way to much boost for a small motor.
    Plus no limp mode either but thats another story. Will let yo know how I go
    Last edited by threedogs; 20th May 2018 at 06:31 AM.
    04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there

  11. #8366
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    Quote Originally Posted by threedogs View Post
    Fitted some 6.5 in speakers all around a year or so back one of the better mods.

    Tomorrow I'll be taken a bit of boost out of the beast, the guys that did the head must of fixed a suspected leak I thought I had so will back it off fro 25psi ay 100mph to about 110psi at 110 mph or Hume hwy running, then fiddle with Dawes as suggested by @mudski, way to much boost for a small motor.
    Plus no limp mode either but thats another story. Will let yo know how I go
    Yeh (in my case), slightest vacuum leak can have large impact on spool/boost especially running high boost levels.
    Saw this recently, had a stage 3 turbo fitted and tune(running 22-23 maxB), the the guys replaced my Dawes with a Tillix but used a vac hose with too large a ID to suit the vac filter. Vac leak and caused lose of boost hauling(egts high) and lack of spool response/pwr low down(laggy). Traveled 350ks home, found leak, repaired got instant improvement but needs another tune (FOChg of course).
    Last edited by Bidja; 19th May 2018 at 04:46 PM.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

  12. #8367
    Expert Bidja's Avatar
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    Thursday, had ECPT do a follow up dyno tune and to provide more fuel low down for improved spool for 4 & 5th gear to match up with new procharge stage 3 turbo running Max B 22psi.
    Today, doing final adjustment to the actuator rod length with good result. Achieved improved linear spool/pwr response thru rev range (>1800 rpm). Max boost >21 psi in 1st 2nd 3rd gears from 1800rpm in 4th and 5th from 2000 rpm, can produce and hold max torque >370N-m from 1800rpm in all gears under load condition....Running full NADS, Tillix/needle, Fabwitz 3" complete SS induction sys (air box to throttle body).
    Hwy run <11.5 lt/100kms from Nth of Sydney to ACT doing mostly 110kph and acceptable EGTs. Dyno max result 122kW (163rwhp) / 378 N-m.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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