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10th July 2012, 01:12 PM
#21
Im going to look at making a set up for my GQ Patrol! This will definately give me more of an idea on exactly how to mount it!
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10th July 2012 01:12 PM
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31st July 2012, 09:46 PM
#22
Advanced
I need to get hold of some sliders, I can't weld and don't have the time even if I could. I imagine that having a set up that creates anything that protrudes below the actual chassis rail is going to cause a potential snag on rocks. What do the commercial sliders have for mounts?
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1st August 2012, 12:54 AM
#23
I have a set of sliders built by a bloke who called himself Trex back in 2001ish..... They have the plates and bolts above/below the chassis and never hung up - if you are getting too much hard stuff up that high you will have other problems meaning you fail to proceed....
And in reality - unless you weld to the chassis, any bracket will go under & over so most have the same issues. The main thing is to not have unneeded protrusion - keep the excess slim.
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9th August 2012, 03:20 AM
#24
Patrol Freak
get rid of any ally steps you got. i went into a wash out and bent the steps up against the doors.
was pretty funny at the time climbing out the window.
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4th April 2013, 05:58 PM
#25
Originally Posted by
Plasnart
Andy, I'd steer clear of having the chassis "cupped" as it could trap moisture/mud and assist corrosion. My sliders are bolted to the chassis with two 8mm-thick plates both sides. Two high tension bolts top and bottom. It is super strong and I can jack both wheels off the ground with no deflection at all. If you can keep your chassis open to the air I think you should do it that way.
What diameter bolts did you use? I am just thinking of the space between the top of chassis rail and the floor. I have a short wheel base GQ and they way you have used the bolts instead of making a cup is a great idea.
Thanks
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4th April 2013, 06:21 PM
#26
Originally Posted by
Paul C
The only thing with this that I would suggest is to put the top bolts through the factory side step bolt holes.
What about using side step holes as bottom bolt holes. This way you would have nothing below bottom of chassis. Just an idea.
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26th October 2015, 06:40 PM
#27
Sorry for the gravedig, but this post seemed appropriate.. Has anyone had any issues fitting the clamp style sliders with an lra auxiliary fuel tank? Tank is a pita to get out so just seeing if this will be an issue before I buy a set
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27th October 2015, 10:22 PM
#28
Legendary
Hi mate, yeah I've got drm sliders with the clamp setup and the lra tank. No issues the top bolt sits above the top of the tank so no dramas.
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28th October 2015, 11:11 AM
#29
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The Following User Says Thank You to Throbbinhood For This Useful Post:
Rossco (28th October 2015)
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29th October 2015, 12:34 AM
#30
Sorry for the thread hijack just to ask a dumb question, but how do you make sure that the fuel and brake lines that run along the inside of the chassis rail don't rub on the slider bracket?
WARNING: Using a Tow Ball on any Snatch can KILL PEOPLE!
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