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AB you can make your bracket the same size as the height of the chassis RHS also if you are going to mount the sliders to a flat bar section i would Oxy cut a hole into the flat bar section an therfore would insert the slider half way into the flat bar section as you will get ample weld to the piping section bear in mind when welded properly a 6mm CFW ( Fillet weld ) an inch long will hold 1 tonne.
Also if you have enough clearance you can drill holes into your chassis and mount it that way id be using a M12 grade 8.8 bolt as this will be substancial for that purpose also installing that gusset will be the best thing you can do as this will stop the slider from bending if you get stuck on rocks.
If you are drilling holes especially for things that are going to cop a bit of punishment from time to time and to stop the holes from tearing from each of the hole edges should be a hole and a half to the center of your bolt hole
Also i dont know what you will be welding it with but if you have a stick welder stay away from a GP ( General Purpose ) electrode as the weld is not as strong as a Low Hydrogen weld and personal preference for a welding rod would be a WIA 7016 3.2 or a 2.5 mm rod - Amp range for a 3.2 would range between 90 amps to 120 amps and a 2.5 would range between 65 amps to 90amps.
If you would like any information into the regards of steel fabrication just ask me and i will try and help you out the best that i can ( Boilermaker / welder by trade )
Arr, good stuff mate, thanks for the tips. I'll keep that in mind.
I'm not overly keen on drilling into the chassis though, I would prefer to keep the chassis stock without mucking with it.
Good tips on the welding though mate, I'm not the greatest welder in the world so I might hit my brother up for the welding part or even pay someone to do it as I wouldn't trust my welds in a million years to use a jack point too.
Thanks mate, unfortunately I'm governed to some degree (slight bending) by the original set up which has only two mounts either side.
The first one looks like it will be right in the middle of the body mount...LMAO...Just my luck!!!!!
The rear one looks like it should be exactly like your third one too...From inside bull bar 140cm to first mount and another 125cm's to the third mount.
I'm just going cut it now and see where it sits anyway....I know the slider will run short too...About 15-20cm short of the rear door....I'll cut it today if I get time and see where it sits anyway....Nothing better than cutting up a Toyota...lol
Big fail today with the bars, they just won't work.
I could bend and twist and weld, etc but the effort involved won't be worth it. If bent to suit the first mount will be infront of the body mount where there is no way to mount.
Also, they are about 200mm short so It's just not worth the effort. Apologies Plassy for getting you to get the measurements, etc...
AB told me you had a thread about mounting sliders.
I looked at my GU and needed some ideas.
Cheers for the effort you went to.
06 GU IV Nissan Patrol wagon 3.0L, Tough Dog 2" lift, Xrox bar, 12k Mako winch, 33" muddies, 3" exhaust, Awning, UHF, drawers & fridge, custom sliders, DVDs, custom water tank and pump, rack etc etc.
Now just in - GQ Shorty 4.2 petrol, UHF - but looking at turbo or V8 conversion
These are similar to mine although mine use 50x25 RHS sections. These sound light but on the high lift I can jack up the complete side with no issues. Also a flatter profile. To date no issues with the cleats sitting a little lower than the chassis rails. Just a little more foot required occasionally to bull them through / over. Definately the 2 x bolts top and bottom are the way to go. The only thing with this that I would suggest is to put the top bolts through the factory side step bolt holes.
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