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Thread: Mounting sliders to chassis - DIY

  1. #1
    Administrator AB's Avatar
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    Mounting sliders to chassis - DIY

    Ok, as some of you know I am taking a set of scrub bar slider combo from another vehicle...Yes, another vehicle which we won't go into what kind of vehicle that is...lol

    Anyways, just thinking of the best way to mount this as I have realised the sliders are welded to the chassis of the other vehicle.

    I'm thinking of cutting them off and welding a wedge to the end of the tube and welding that onto a "U" bracket to wrap around the underside of the chassis and bolt on top of the chassis to clamp onto the chassis itself.

    This should minimise any overhang under the chassis to get caught on things.

    What does everyone think of the below example?

    Questions are:

    What thickness should the U shape be? 10mm????

    One or two bolts at the top to clamp shut the U bracket?


  2. The Following User Says Thank You to AB For This Useful Post:

    Andy185 (16th January 2012)

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  4. #2
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    AB, meybe some of the members who have them fitted already can take some pics & post them up to give you an idea if what other manufacturers have done to mount them in a Patrol.

    Just a thought.

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    Patrol God Dhuck's Avatar
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    I have 4 of mounts along both sides on mine. The front one is made from 75mm Box and bolts on at a mounting point on the chassis. The other 3 are 50mm Box with u brackets made with 8mm flat and have 2 bolts through the top. When it dry's up up here I will try to take a couple of pics for you. May be a little difficult as I have 8mm flat running along the distance of the mounts.
    In the words of a Dhuck "QUACK".

  6. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Dhuck For This Useful Post:

    AB (1st December 2011), Andy185 (16th January 2012), patch697 (1st December 2011)

  7. #4
    Patrol Freak BillsGU's Avatar
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    Mine are bolted on the same way you have drawn in the diagram AB. And if I remember correctly they use the same holes the factory steps (GU) used.

  8. #5
    Smart like tractor Ben-e-boy's Avatar
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    I think it depends on how strong you want it and if you want to use it as a jacking point.

    Because I have a long arm kit no slider on the market will fit my ute. I need to make my own. I was thinking of using 8mm x 100mm flat bar bent to suit the chassis. the first bend is at 130degrees
    in the middle of the flat bar. I would then bend my 90 degree bends to make a W shape. then I will flatern out the 130 degree bend to give me my u shape I will use 2 bolt and heavilly gussett the bracket I want my sliders to support the full weight of the ute
    96 GQ coil/Cab
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  9. #6
    Patrol God Dhuck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy View Post
    I think it depends on how strong you want it and if you want to use it as a jacking point.

    Because I have a long arm kit no slider on the market will fit my ute. I need to make my own. I was thinking of using 8mm x 100mm flat bar bent to suit the chassis. the first bend is at 130degrees
    in the middle of the flat bar. I would then bend my 90 degree bends to make a W shape. then I will flatern out the 130 degree bend to give me my u shape I will use 2 bolt and heavilly gussett the bracket I want my sliders to support the full weight of the ute
    There is no weight in your ute. But yes mine are extremely strong. Support the truck on rocks and Hi lift jack
    In the words of a Dhuck "QUACK".

  10. #7
    Smart like tractor Ben-e-boy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dhuck View Post
    There is no weight in your ute. But yes mine are extremely strong. Support the truck on rocks and Hi lift jack

    2.4 tonne. it weighs more than you think especially with up to 250 kg of diesel on board

    I know yours are strong pigtrol weighs 187000 tonnes plus it could support the moon incase it falls out of orbit
    Last edited by Ben-e-boy; 1st December 2011 at 06:45 PM.
    96 GQ coil/Cab
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    Breadmaker Shaker Plasnart's Avatar
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    Andy, I'd steer clear of having the chassis "cupped" as it could trap moisture/mud and assist corrosion. My sliders are bolted to the chassis with two 8mm-thick plates both sides. Two high tension bolts top and bottom. It is super strong and I can jack both wheels off the ground with no deflection at all. If you can keep your chassis open to the air I think you should do it that way.

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    When you have to shoot, shoot.
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    ~Tuco.

  12. The Following 12 Users Say Thank You to Plasnart For This Useful Post:

    AB (1st December 2011), Andy185 (16th January 2012), canuck (2nd December 2011), Clunk (3rd December 2011), Dhuck (1st December 2011), growler2058 (2nd December 2011), molongmick (16th January 2012), patch697 (1st December 2011), Robo (28th October 2015), SonOf (21st May 2013), Superoo (3rd June 2013), xtreme patrol (9th December 2011)

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    Administrator AB's Avatar
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    Thanks for the comments gents!

    Mine are bolted on the same way you have drawn in the diagram AB. And if I remember correctly they use the same holes the factory steps (GU) used.
    Thanks Bill, unfortunately the GQ standard steps are bolted on the floor of the body with small bolts with a thin crappy pinch plate clipped onto the side panels of the body. I thought I could maybe utilise that too until I checked it properly.

    Plassy, perfect mate thats what I was after.

    My only concern was the extra inch or so under the chassis sticking out thats all but welding an 8mm plate to the tube and cutting one for the side is ten times easier then making up a U bracket.

    Decisions decisions...LMAO

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    Patrol God Dhuck's Avatar
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    That would be the way to go Andy. A job that would be alot easier and still has plenty of strength.
    In the words of a Dhuck "QUACK".

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    Lieney (14th June 2012)

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