OUR VIDEOS GALLERY MEMBER SPONSORSHIP VENDOR SPONSORSHIP

User Tag List

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 32

Thread: Mounting sliders to chassis - DIY

  1. #11
    Expert hutchy84's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    South Yunderup W.A
    Posts
    103
    Thanks
    20
    Thanked 35 Times in 21 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    AB you can make your bracket the same size as the height of the chassis RHS also if you are going to mount the sliders to a flat bar section i would Oxy cut a hole into the flat bar section an therfore would insert the slider half way into the flat bar section as you will get ample weld to the piping section bear in mind when welded properly a 6mm CFW ( Fillet weld ) an inch long will hold 1 tonne.

    Also if you have enough clearance you can drill holes into your chassis and mount it that way id be using a M12 grade 8.8 bolt as this will be substancial for that purpose also installing that gusset will be the best thing you can do as this will stop the slider from bending if you get stuck on rocks.

    If you are drilling holes especially for things that are going to cop a bit of punishment from time to time and to stop the holes from tearing from each of the hole edges should be a hole and a half to the center of your bolt hole

    Also i dont know what you will be welding it with but if you have a stick welder stay away from a GP ( General Purpose ) electrode as the weld is not as strong as a Low Hydrogen weld and personal preference for a welding rod would be a WIA 7016 3.2 or a 2.5 mm rod - Amp range for a 3.2 would range between 90 amps to 120 amps and a 2.5 would range between 65 amps to 90amps.

    If you would like any information into the regards of steel fabrication just ask me and i will try and help you out the best that i can ( Boilermaker / welder by trade )

  2. # ADS
    Circuit advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many

     

  3. #12
    Administrator AB's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Christmas Hills - Yarra Glen - Victoria
    Posts
    26,758
    Thanks
    12,371
    Thanked 19,074 Times in 8,039 Posts
    Mentioned
    451 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Arr, good stuff mate, thanks for the tips. I'll keep that in mind.

    I'm not overly keen on drilling into the chassis though, I would prefer to keep the chassis stock without mucking with it.

    Good tips on the welding though mate, I'm not the greatest welder in the world so I might hit my brother up for the welding part or even pay someone to do it as I wouldn't trust my welds in a million years to use a jack point too.

  4. #13
    Administrator AB's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Christmas Hills - Yarra Glen - Victoria
    Posts
    26,758
    Thanks
    12,371
    Thanked 19,074 Times in 8,039 Posts
    Mentioned
    451 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Plassy my friend...lol

    What are the chances of you measuring a plate on yours to tell me what the size is and the hole centre dimensions?

    Are they 12mm bolts?

  5. #14
    Administrator AB's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Christmas Hills - Yarra Glen - Victoria
    Posts
    26,758
    Thanks
    12,371
    Thanked 19,074 Times in 8,039 Posts
    Mentioned
    451 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Thanks for doing that for us mate, appreciate it!

    For anyone else needing this I have made a scale 1:100 plan for the dimensions above...

    EDIT: Ive been doing too many plans this week...LMAO....It's scaled 1:1....Not 1:100.....That would be one serious plate at 1:100...
    Attached Files Attached Files

  6. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to AB For This Useful Post:

    canuck (4th December 2011), HammerBuilder (13th July 2012), xtreme patrol (9th December 2011)

  7. #15
    Administrator AB's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Christmas Hills - Yarra Glen - Victoria
    Posts
    26,758
    Thanks
    12,371
    Thanked 19,074 Times in 8,039 Posts
    Mentioned
    451 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Thanks mate, unfortunately I'm governed to some degree (slight bending) by the original set up which has only two mounts either side.

    The first one looks like it will be right in the middle of the body mount...LMAO...Just my luck!!!!!

    The rear one looks like it should be exactly like your third one too...From inside bull bar 140cm to first mount and another 125cm's to the third mount.

    I'm just going cut it now and see where it sits anyway....I know the slider will run short too...About 15-20cm short of the rear door....I'll cut it today if I get time and see where it sits anyway....Nothing better than cutting up a Toyota...lol

  8. #16
    Administrator AB's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Christmas Hills - Yarra Glen - Victoria
    Posts
    26,758
    Thanks
    12,371
    Thanked 19,074 Times in 8,039 Posts
    Mentioned
    451 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Big fail today with the bars, they just won't work.

    I could bend and twist and weld, etc but the effort involved won't be worth it. If bent to suit the first mount will be infront of the body mount where there is no way to mount.

    Also, they are about 200mm short so It's just not worth the effort. Apologies Plassy for getting you to get the measurements, etc...

  9. #17
    Beginner wheels's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Pretoria, South Africa
    Posts
    26
    Thanks
    5
    Thanked 13 Times in 5 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Also a nice write up from one of your local sites.
    http://www.mudrhino.com.au/Docs/DIY4.pdf

  10. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to wheels For This Useful Post:

    AB (9th December 2011), HammerBuilder (13th July 2012), patch697 (9th December 2011)

  11. #18
    Administrator AB's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Christmas Hills - Yarra Glen - Victoria
    Posts
    26,758
    Thanks
    12,371
    Thanked 19,074 Times in 8,039 Posts
    Mentioned
    451 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    They do good DIY write up's those guys over there....

  12. #19
    Expert Lieney's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Adelaide,SA
    Posts
    284
    Thanks
    13
    Thanked 73 Times in 38 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    AB told me you had a thread about mounting sliders.
    I looked at my GU and needed some ideas.
    Cheers for the effort you went to.
    06 GU IV Nissan Patrol wagon 3.0L, Tough Dog 2" lift, Xrox bar, 12k Mako winch, 33" muddies, 3" exhaust, Awning, UHF, drawers & fridge, custom sliders, DVDs, custom water tank and pump, rack etc etc.
    Now just in - GQ Shorty 4.2 petrol, UHF - but looking at turbo or V8 conversion

  13. #20
    Advanced
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    30
    Thanks
    26
    Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    These are similar to mine although mine use 50x25 RHS sections. These sound light but on the high lift I can jack up the complete side with no issues. Also a flatter profile. To date no issues with the cleats sitting a little lower than the chassis rails. Just a little more foot required occasionally to bull them through / over. Definately the 2 x bolts top and bottom are the way to go. The only thing with this that I would suggest is to put the top bolts through the factory side step bolt holes.

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •