Change steering wheel to a smaller one (aftermarket).

[harry-potzer]

So, at http://www.transport.wa.gov.au/licensing/20500.asp it doesn't say anything about steering wheels. But I don't think that it IS really necessary to re-license the car just because the steering wheel...

So from the mechanical side - how do I change a steering wheel? Are there videos on Youtube? Is every car the same? Are there videos on the forum?

Thanks in advance!

[Bigrig]

So, at http://www.transport.wa.gov.au/licensing/20500.asp it doesn't say anything about steering wheels. But I don't think that it IS really necessary to re-license the car just because the steering wheel...

So from the mechanical side - how do I change a steering wheel? Are there videos on Youtube? Is every car the same? Are there videos on the forum?

Thanks in advance!

Changing the wheel isn't a great hurdle depending on the wheel - if it comes with a Boss kit then the only "jigging" you may need to do is for the horn wiring - my AutoTechnica wheel came with a boss kit but nowhere to earth the horn, so I put a self tapper into the base of the kit and soldered the earth to it - works a treat. The other problem I found was the spacer in the kit was too small and I had to hunt for a larger one ... just a big washer essentially.

The factory wheel has a small screw that holds the face plate in place underneath - commonly missed and people end up trying to rip it off thinking its a plug in plate - take it out first and you should have no issues from there even if you're only half handy.

Tools needed if straight refit:

19mm (from memory, could be bigger though) socket
Breaker bar (as they are tight)
Phillips head screwdriver

[rkinsey]

A tip for us:

When removing the steering wheel for the first time, they can be quite tight and require a lot of force or a "Wheel bearing puller" If using the former (good old armstrong tools....) then undo the nut securing the Steering wheel to the steering shaft but dont take it all the way off. Leave it done up a few turns on the end of the thread.

Then get both arms behind the steering wheel and brace your feet on the floor and turn on the armstrong tool. The wheel will want to fly off but with the nut in the way it stops dead. You can now remove the nut and the wheel at your leisure.

If you dont leave the nut on, you will require 2 peices of raw steak........ to treat the two black eyes you will be sporting for the better part of a week!!!

Cheers,

Rob.

[the evil twin]

I put an N14 wheel on my Q. Bolted straight up, had to ease a small piece of the trim about 1mm to stop it scraping. It would be a very knowledgeable inspector who could spot it as they have the Nissan logo etc.

I'm 185 Cm's and it did make a difference to the legroom and I adjusted the tilt to full max up and the gauges were fine... might not be enough adjustment for someone +200 Cm's tho

As Bigrig says don't overlook the phillips head screw... it isn't straight in the hole it is actually up at an angle, undo that, pop off the Horn trim, undo the nut (mucho tight as prev said).

To get the wheel off I brace my knees at the bottom (6 O'clock) and grab the top (12 O'clock) with one hand. Put as much tension back towards you with your knees and hand as you can at 6 and 12 O'clock and belt the wheel as hard as you can alternately at 3 and 9 downwards, yes, downwards. A rubber mallet is ideal or the palm of your hand.

You are trying to break the seal between the spline of the shaft and the steering wheel boss and this technique seems to work the best for me.

[harry-potzer]

Thanks guys - I'll think this over and have a look on some wheels. Thank you very much for answering my mechanical questions.