-
3rd October 2011, 11:38 AM
#11
Administrator
I forgot to take photos...OOPS!
I cut the rust out of the roof and the gutters on the weekend, got right in and removed everything and sprayed rust converter all inside too.
So far so good, the rust is only isolated in those two little spots. I also bogged it all up and primed it.
The side quarter is still damaged but I did remove all the surface rust and prime that for now to stop the process and took the petrol cap off and I'll get the paint matched today and spray it next weekend.
Poor Bluey is looking like a beaten up two tone mess at the moment...LMAO...But she'll come good by the weekend!!!
-
-
3rd October 2011 11:38 AM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
-
3rd October 2011, 12:53 PM
#12
RIP - valued member and true gentleman of this forum that will be missed by many!
I don't know if it is still the case, but it used to be that primer is not water proof - you need to put some colour on or rust will reappear.
-
-
3rd October 2011, 01:26 PM
#13
Administrator
Originally Posted by
Silver
I don't know if it is still the case, but it used to be that primer is not water proof - you need to put some colour on or rust will reappear.
For sure mate, the car is in the shed now and I just dropped off the fuel cap to get matched this week and Bluey isn't going anywhere until I can paint it next weekend.
-
-
3rd October 2011, 05:02 PM
#14
RIP - valued member and true gentleman of this forum that will be missed by many!
I don't know if short term exposure to water is an issue. The blokes I knew that resprayed used to squirt on a mist of black over the primer, as a guide coat, and then block it back with fine abrasive paper, using water to keep the paper clean. Maybe that was the only way it could be done?
What was a problem was leaving primer on its own for a while.
Sounds like a good project AB. Was it fiddly removing and replacing the roof lining? Guess you did it in sections?
-
-
3rd October 2011, 07:47 PM
#15
Administrator
Originally Posted by
Silver
I don't know if short term exposure to water is an issue. The blokes I knew that resprayed used to squirt on a mist of black over the primer, as a guide coat, and then block it back with fine abrasive paper, using water to keep the paper clean. Maybe that was the only way it could be done?
What was a problem was leaving primer on its own for a while.
Sounds like a good project AB. Was it fiddly removing and replacing the roof lining? Guess you did it in sections?
I did a bit of a dodgy mate, not that I ever do dodgys...lol
The outside bubbles pretty much had tiny rusted holes after removing all the rust so I ended up going deeper with 2 holes the size of a 5 cent piece. I could then look inside to see what damage was done and vacuum'd out all the debris to find it was actually no rust in the inner panel. Poked around for about half an hour with lights, vacuum, etc to find it was all clear on the inner panel and sprayed rust converter inside to be sure.
Time will tell if I was right or wrong...LMAO
-
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to AB For This Useful Post:
Finly Owner (3rd October 2011), Silver (3rd October 2011)
-
5th October 2011, 01:03 AM
#16
Zap it! Zap it now!
Treat rust like you would cancer -if you find a lump, you don't delay yanking it out until it gets big enough to be serious. Instead, you get it now before it has the chance to get serious.
-
-
19th February 2012, 05:26 PM
#17
Beginner
I have one of those also but mines on the window frame of the front passenger door and I also have what look a rusty skin rash on the passenger side B pillar I will take some pictures for those who love a good look.
What would you be if you were attached to another object by an incline plane wrapped helically around an axis?
Screwed.
-
-
19th February 2012, 06:44 PM
#18
Beginner
-