Checking and cleaning MAF sensors

[Oversize]

Adding a note from experience to this thread,

Thelma recently had a 'dirty MAF issue' and we cleaned, it. No fix. Replaced it, no fix. Replaced computer, no fix. For shits and giggles we put another new MAF sensor in and BINGO, fixed. So if it tastes, smells, feels like MAF - it probably is...

With problem solved Thelma runs like a new one and fuel efficiency is 7.5 to 8.5 L/100 ks. Very happy.

Thelma & Louise

[Sir Roofy]

This pic shows the position of the Mass Air Flow sensor (on my ZD30) on the top of the air filter housing. Shown here with the wiring cover removed.



The testing procedure is done at the back of the plug with suitable probes to interrogate the wiring. The main test is for battery voltage at terminal 4 and supply voltage (5volts) at terminal 2 (white wire). Then you should have 1.6 – 2.0 volts at the red wire of terminal 1 with the engine idling. Voltage will increase as engine revs increase.


To remove the sensor you will need a T20 torx bit. After removing the two retaining screws, gently twist the sensor and remove from housing.
To clean the MAF sensor you will need a suitable cleaner, I got CRC MAF cleaner from Repco, I had to ask for it, it wasn't on display.
Do not touch any of the surfaces of the sensor, let the cleaning spray do the work. If you work over a white cloth, you can see the color of the solvent coming off, keep going untill the solvent comes off clean.


This pic shows the sensor cleaner, the sensor removed from the housing, and the torx bit used to remove it.



If you do need to replace the MAF sensor, these are the part numbers to use. These numbers are just for the sensor shown in the photo above. This is significantly cheaper than replacing the WHOLE air flow meter, housing and all.
ZD 30 Series 1-3 22680AD21A (previously 22680AD210 which was before that 22680 AD201)

ZD30 Series 4 22680 7S000

Tony

have a look here

[crutchy26]

Love your Provent 200, in the background. Just like mine & hundreds of others!

[lagoonboy]

Great thread YNOT... thanks.....reading with interest as have had power issues with my 5/2007 ZD30 whilst towing the camper.

It seems to be OK when the weather is cool but as soon as the weather heats up (30+) its really bad, come to think of it its bad when not towing as well in the heat.

Do you think the heat be adding to the problem if the MAF needs cleaning?

[mudski]

@ lagoonboy. Try cleaning the MAF first. You should really do it on every service as a part of your routine.

[mcleod]

thanks for this info, dont know whether mine has been cleaned or not, 150k on the clock, hopefully it was cleaned by the nissan blokes during the service.

[chrysler]

g~day sorry for my lack of understanding my MAF shows......a..nothing,white,green/yel,green/yel,pink,black? i do not know what series it is?
regards Rob

[Pepper]

Mine is the same as crysler above ....nothing,white,green/yellow,green/yellow,pink,black ...also my wires all have cuts in the insulation it appears that the nissan dealer did this to check voltages with a probe.....i cant get any voltage readings with my volt meter will try again...

[mudski]

Chrysler post up your series e.g GUIV, GUIII,GUII and your build date. 2000-2004 are 4 pins MAFs and 2004-2007 are six pins. CRD's I'm not sure of yet. There is some 5pin MAFs floating around which suit the 2000-2004, after market they are, still work but not really sure what the fifth wire is for...
Peps, still having issues mate. Just so you know I have a shipment of 2.8's and 3.0ltr MAF (4 and 6 pin OEMs, just not in OEM boxes) hopefully arriving this week. Bloody chinese new year and the world has to stop for them...

[chrysler]

thanx for quick response 11/07 GU vi (6) auto .i`m actually in the proccess of buying a new sensor ..intown here at Geraldton WA they want ~$625 for the sensor alone. I can get 1 new overnight from perth for $210.00 Genuine. some times it`s "why buy local"
Rob