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Thread: Checking and cleaning MAF sensors

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    Checking and cleaning MAF sensors

    This pic shows the position of the Mass Air Flow sensor (on my ZD30) on the top of the air filter housing. Shown here with the wiring cover removed.



    The testing procedure is done at the back of the plug with suitable probes to interrogate the wiring. The main test is for battery voltage at terminal 4 and supply voltage (5volts) at terminal 2 (white wire). Then you should have 1.6 – 2.0 volts at the red wire of terminal 1 with the engine idling. Voltage will increase as engine revs increase.


    To remove the sensor you will need a T20 torx bit. After removing the two retaining screws, gently twist the sensor and remove from housing.
    To clean the MAF sensor you will need a suitable cleaner, I got CRC MAF cleaner from Repco, I had to ask for it, it wasn't on display.
    Do not touch any of the surfaces of the sensor, let the cleaning spray do the work. If you work over a white cloth, you can see the color of the solvent coming off, keep going untill the solvent comes off clean.


    This pic shows the sensor cleaner, the sensor removed from the housing, and the torx bit used to remove it.



    If you do need to replace the MAF sensor, these are the part numbers to use. These numbers are just for the sensor shown in the photo above. This is significantly cheaper than replacing the WHOLE air flow meter, housing and all.
    ZD 30 Series 1-3 22680AD21A (previously 22680AD210 which was before that 22680 AD201)

    ZD30 Series 4 22680 7S000

    Tony
    Last edited by YNOT; 14th August 2010 at 08:24 AM.

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    ZD30 Prior series 4
    there should be 4 wires at your MAF they'll be Red, White, Black and White terminal 1,2,3 and 4 respectively,
    With the car idling, warmed up to normal operating temp, vehicle in nuetral and the AC off test the following;
    The 1 (R) should be reading between 1.6 and 2 volts
    The 3 (B) should be reading 0v
    With the car stopped but the ignition 'on' disconnect the MAF plug and test
    The 2 (w) should be reading approx 5v
    The 4 (W) should be reading the battery voltage.
    If they read these voltages your MAF is fuctioning correctly.

    ZD30 Series 4
    there should be a 6 pin connector Nothing, White, Black, Red, White and Black, terminal 1,2,3,4,5,&6
    With the car idling, warmed up to normal operating temp AC off, in neutral no load test the following
    The 3 (B) should be reading 0v
    The 4 (R) should be reading between 1.5 to 1.9v at idle increasing to 4.0v when revving through to 4000rpm
    With the car stopped but the ignition 'on' disconnect the MAF plug and test
    The 2 (W) should be reading the battery voltage
    If they read these you MAF is fuctioning

    TB45
    There should be a Black/Red wire, Black and White wire Term 2,3 &4
    With the car idling, warmed up in nuetral and ac off there should be the following
    The 3 (B) should be reading 0v
    The 4 (W) should be reading 1.3 to 1.8v, and with the engine at 2500rpm should be 2.1 to 2.5v
    With the car of disconnect the MAF plug turn the ignition on and test
    The 2 (B/R) should be reading the battery voltage

    TB48
    There should be a White/Green, Yellow, Black/White and Black/Red Term 1,2,3 & 4
    With the car idling, warmed up, in nuetral and the AC off there should be the following
    The 1 (W/G) should be reading 1.1 to 1.5v, and at 2500rpm 1.7 to 2.4v
    The 3 (B/W) should be reading 0v

    Turn the car off and disconnect the MAF plug and turn the ignition on
    The 2 (Y) should be reading approx 5v
    The 4 (B/R) should be reading the battery voltage

    RD28
    There should be White, Black and Red Term 1,2 &3
    With the car idling warmed up in nuetral with the AC off there should be the following
    The 2 (B) Should be reading 0v
    The 3 (R) should be reading 1.6 to 2.0v

    Withe the car off disconnect the MAF plug and turn the ignition on
    The 1 (W) should be the battery voltage

    If they dont read the battery voltage of the approx 5v at those respective termianls there is most likely a short in the system so check the connectors harnesses and plugs if they don't read the voltages at idle then there is most likely a fault with the MAF.

    Tony

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    Top post Tony, This will save some members a lot of dosh as now thay can DIY it.

    Cheers
    Paul

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    Thought i would give you some feedback Tony , i followed your instructions re the maf sensor , took it out , bought a can of that cleaner from repco cost me $25. sprayed the sensor all over thoroughly , noticed it all the black stuff dripping off , it wasn't too bad to start off with anyway , put it all back together again. Now i will see if i get any power loss after about an hours driving that i have experienced , hopefully it will be ok , but at this stage it still the same as before i cleaned it which is pretty good . My ZD30 has got very good take off , has no lag !!!!

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    Thanks for the feedback Pete.
    My ZD30 still has a problem going into limp mode under load, lift off the accelerator then power on again and it comes good for a while. I'll be gettig a new MAF sensor soon which should fix it.
    One thing I will have to add to my original post, is to disconnect the battery after cleaning the sensor, to reset the computer. You might want to try that.

    Tony

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    Quote Originally Posted by YNOT View Post
    Thanks for the feedback Pete.
    My ZD30 still has a problem going into limp mode under load, lift off the accelerator then power on again and it comes good for a while. I'll be gettig a new MAF sensor soon which should fix it.
    One thing I will have to add to my original post, is to disconnect the battery after cleaning the sensor, to reset the computer. You might want to try that.

    Tony
    Hi Tony
    Yeah funny thing that sudden loss of power , you reckon it's a dodgy maff sensor ??..Its a bit scary when it happens blows a bit of smoke then comes good all of sudden .!!!!!! Im happy to get a new sensor if that is the problem , at least i can be confident of doing a trip and not have to limp home if it gets any worse ...!!!!

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    I need to do a bit more research but I'm confident that's what it is. Initially I thought it was getting too much boost causing it to go into limp mode, but I reduced the boost and it still does it.
    Mine doesn't blow any smoke when it loses power.

    Tony

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    Thanks for the post Tony, great to get such detailed advice.

    Paul
    Western Patrol Club member #27
    2.8TD GU --> The Red Rocket

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    Quote Originally Posted by YNOT View Post
    Thanks for the feedback Pete.
    My ZD30 still has a problem going into limp mode under load, lift off the accelerator then power on again and it comes good for a while. I'll be gettig a new MAF sensor soon which should fix it.
    One thing I will have to add to my original post, is to disconnect the battery after cleaning the sensor, to reset the computer. You might want to try that.

    Tony
    Hey Tony,

    Mate is Your vehicle loosing all acceleration then lift the pedal and then you have full acceleration again? It sounds to me like the Throttle Position Sensor. These things are also notorious for failing after a while. I made enquiries on replacing the sensor but was told by Nissan that the whole pedal has to be replaced and not just the sensor. At $500 a pop they can jam it. I tried to find a sensor on its own, with no luck (mind you I didn't try too hard). I have successfully cleaned mine and as a result works well again. I will post some details on another thread regarding this.

    Cheers

    TC

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    Thanks TC, I've just read your post/thread about cleaning the TPS.
    I'll add that to the list of things to try when I get time. I've been in discussion with someone else on here who is also having the same problem. At this stage the next step for me is more adjustment of the dawes and needle valves to slow down the turbo spool up, another thing that can trigger limp mode.

    Tony

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