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6th November 2012, 07:59 PM
#31
Expert
Cheers for the simple yet affective pictures and explanation.
I had seen the parts you pull out about 2 years previous and have not done mine yet.
I have had the buzzing / clicking happen a couple times.
I lock the hubs for a little, then unlock and she seems all good.
I am very aware mind you of not activating 4-wheel drive while on the tarmac, as I have seen the outcome on Land Rover 110s when the center diff is locked.
Even more funny when a driver has the power devider on a Mack activated.
Hilarious though, although the driver didn't agree.
06 GU IV Nissan Patrol wagon 3.0L, Tough Dog 2" lift, Xrox bar, 12k Mako winch, 33" muddies, 3" exhaust, Awning, UHF, drawers & fridge, custom sliders, DVDs, custom water tank and pump, rack etc etc.
Now just in - GQ Shorty 4.2 petrol, UHF - but looking at turbo or V8 conversion
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6th November 2012 07:59 PM
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4th May 2014, 07:15 PM
#32
Expert
Hey, thanks for this useful link . it explains why i was confused about it's workings. i saw a video about changing hubs and the bloke said something about a spacer. All makes sense now. thanks again.
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23rd May 2014, 11:00 PM
#33
Wow, who'd have thought. Just read up on FB and thought people were taking the p...
Might look into this little number. Great thread and nice easy instructions to follow especially with these pictures.
Thanks guys
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22nd November 2014, 11:03 AM
#34
I have the same thing as Roo72, But what I did was weld a little 75mm bolt to the side of the tube and it acts like a handle, And that has found a home in my drivers door pocket
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22nd November 2014, 11:52 PM
#35
Expert
leaving the outer part as a spacer defeats the point of converting them to manual as your removing only half of the auto cam assembly leaving it partly operable, this WILL cause issues if you like to engage low range with the hubs unlocked(reversing trailers etc) doing so with the outer half still fitted will cause the auto mechanism to be locking and unlocking as it rides up and down on the ring. if you must leave the outer ring in as a spacer grind it down until the raised sections are gone and theres nothing there for the auto locking mechanism to ride up and activate on
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23rd November 2014, 06:17 PM
#36
Hey guys,
I have a quick question, concerning my hubs, When I set them back to auto after a day of locked in fun, the next day or so when I look at them they are half way between locked and auto.
move them back to auto and they move again, by taking out the auto lock fix this and stop it from happening. My trol is a 2006 IV ST wagon.
Thanks
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23rd November 2014, 06:20 PM
#37
Moderator
You need to reverse for upto 5m once you take the hubs back to auto assuming your in 2wd for them to drop out of lock.
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!!
....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy -->
MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by
Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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23rd November 2014, 07:56 PM
#38
Yeah I do that, but as I drive in two wheel drive the nuts move half way between auto and locked
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30th August 2015, 10:54 PM
#39
Beginner
Took the auto locking mechanism out today
1998 GU 2.8td, snorkel, 2,5 inch lift, Sahara Bar, 13000lbs winch, 285/75R16 BFG ATs
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20th March 2016, 01:29 AM
#40
Can some one please tell me clearly, what to remove and what to put back in when reinstalling the hub....
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