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6th September 2011, 02:16 AM
#1
Beginner
Not sure if I'm getting proper coolant flow through radiator.
After installing a reco ZD30 in my GU3 I filled the cooling system and ran motor to get any air out of system. Turned heater on, even removed fan, and even though the temp gauge showed it was at operating temp the bottom return pipe to the radiator from thermostat housing still felt cool to touch. Top radiator hose was too hot to hold for long. I got mechanic to swap thermostat for genuine one. Same result. Has never over-heated. Had it checked by radiator shop and they couldn't find a fault. I still can't get my head around the what logic tells me: If the return pipe's cold, there's no flow through that pip. Can anyone shed some light and maybe put my mind at ease?
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6th September 2011 02:16 AM
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6th September 2011, 08:45 AM
#2
Administrator
With the engine cold and the radiator cap off can you actually see water returning to the top of the radiator?
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6th September 2011, 08:58 AM
#3
Beginner
Hi, AB.
I can see coolant moving in the reservoir tank with its cap off but not in the radiator with that cap off.
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6th September 2011, 09:33 AM
#4
Patrol God
if you have a genuine themostat the tempreture that it opens at should be ok if your temp gauge is reading normal every thing should be ok
take it for a run and see what the temp range is should go to at least halfway
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6th September 2011, 09:44 AM
#5
Beginner
Thanks, roofy.
Did take it for decent run down Hwy. Temp gauge showed a frag under half way. Bottom engine pipe back to radiator still feels cold to the touch though. Can't get my head around it. Might be a case of me being a little paranoid and seeing ZD30 melt down lurking in every shadow. Thanks heaps for your input.
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6th September 2011, 09:51 AM
#6
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
Mad4Mud
Thanks, roofy.
Did take it for decent run down Hwy. Temp gauge showed a frag under half way. Bottom engine pipe back to radiator still feels cold to the touch though. Can't get my head around it. Might be a case of me being a little paranoid and seeing ZD30 melt down lurking in every shadow. Thanks heaps for your input.
thats ok mate waas going to say that but seeing as you did yep could be
have a look in your owners manual and see what temp range your themostat opens at that will put your mind at ease
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6th September 2011, 10:02 AM
#7
Although I wouldn't expect it to be dead cold as such, if your radiator is working efficiently then you should have a fairly significant temperature drop at the bottom outlet.(much cooler bottom hose)
This is the outlet that returns the tempered coolant back to the engine.
By all means it is better to be safe then sorry especially when you've just replaced the engine but if the engine is showing no signs of overheating & you've had it all checked out & theirs no problems found then I'd say your system is working very efficiently.
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6th September 2011, 10:37 AM
#8
Hardcore
try running it with no thermostat and see how that goes? Had similar problem in my commodore and also had normal temp readings when really car was over heating due to leaking water pump
Whoever appeals to the law against his fellow man is either a fool or a coward.
Whoever cannot take care of themselves without that law is both.
For a wounded man shall say to his assailant,
'If I live, I will kill you. If I die, You are forgiven.'
Such is the rule of honour.
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6th September 2011, 07:57 PM
#9
Beginner
Cheers, Patch. I had it in my head that the flow was the other way. I think the position of the thermostat had me confused. Bit easier to get my head around now that I've been enlightened a bit. I'm pretty sure the thermostat is 82 deg C. Still have to install exhaust temp gauge as the last anti-bang measure, fingers crossed, I'll get around to enjoying it instead of cursing it.
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6th September 2011, 08:15 PM
#10
Beginner
I reckon I might take your advice, macca. Got an old thermo I can cut guts out of and still use rubber gasket so she'll seal. If nothing else I'm curious as the spot where temp gauge now sits is a frag higher than when I first got the Patrol (had 82k on clock) and about the same as it did when it all started to go wrong (roughly 130k on clock). Will post any noticeable differences.
macca, could i ask where the quote came from? Thanks again.
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