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Thread: GQ rear brake lines over the spring perch

  1. #1
    Patrol Guru BrazilianY60's Avatar
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    Question GQ rear brake lines over the spring perch

    Aye!

    I am restoring my GQ brake lines to original form and I have reached a tough point where I'd like to gather some suggestions from people that have done it before. The rear brake lines go over the right/driver side rear spring perch where it is held by two brackets, one at the front of the perch and another on the back, but both on the top of the perch. When I was removing the brake lines from a donor car, after debating whether I'd do it right or do it quick, I ended cutting a hole on the cabin floor to access the brackets.

    Now, needing to install such lines on the GQ being restored, I wonder if there is any way of doing this without separating body from chassis. I confess I am contemplating cutting the lines before the perch to allow them to slide into the bracket in place and joining the cut parts with a brass fitting.

    Any ideas about another method are really appreciated.

    Cheers!
    1997 Blue Nissan Patrol Y60 blacktop TD42 - Honey Badger (build thread)
    2006 White Nissan Patrol Y61 TB45 - G-Unicorn (build thread)
    1997 Red Suzuki Samurai Canvas Top SJ413 - Tatui
    2005 White Toyota Landcruiser FZJ105 - Stormtrooper

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  3. #2
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    I have done this with the body off the chassis and it was a fiddly job with the clearance. I guess its going to come down to your level of patience. the lines have a pipe of direction changes and as soon as you make a minor bend anywhere it throws out the alignment of the end of pipe terminations. I also ran into trouble when I tried to tried using a complete brake line from rear to front from a 1992 on 1 1997, and found the actual tapered fittings were different lengths and I could not get the system to seal at the front termination block. I ended up buying a new termination block and cutting the brake line, inserting the fitting that would seal and redoing the flare. That process alone took 4 hrs - so good luck, maybe not the direct answer but beware of twisting and bending the line out of shape or you will suffer with alignment of the screw fittings.

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    BrazilianY60 (7th July 2023)

  5. #3
    Patrol Guru BrazilianY60's Avatar
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    I am using all the lines from the master to the block (over the firewall path) and the lines from the block to the proportioning valve (along the chassis path). New master and booster, although I surely will have to do a line to master connecting loop of some sort as my booster is from a Frontier and has a large spacer in contrast to the Patrol one that has a short spacer.

    I was reading the topics about bypassing the proportional valve as mine is toast, to learn about the viability of adding a manual configurable one, but found a great post from a guy that compared the Patrol one with others and found that the Mitsubishi L200 one is exactly the same and costs a fraction. And I can source that one off the shelf here, double win! Reading and digging through this forum makes my day everyday!
    1997 Blue Nissan Patrol Y60 blacktop TD42 - Honey Badger (build thread)
    2006 White Nissan Patrol Y61 TB45 - G-Unicorn (build thread)
    1997 Red Suzuki Samurai Canvas Top SJ413 - Tatui
    2005 White Toyota Landcruiser FZJ105 - Stormtrooper

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    PeeBee (7th July 2023), Touses (7th July 2023)

  7. #4
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    I am sure you could find something closer to your location, however these guys carry the Willwood range of brake system upgrades and there is a manual/adjustable brake distribution block setup they sell for hotrods and unique rebuilds.
    https://www.rodshop.com.au/
    Also if the proportional valve is toast you could try Patrol A Part for a second hand unit - unsure if they are serviceable, but not much inside other than a couple of o'rings, spool and spring.

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