-
30th June 2023, 02:23 PM
#1
2012 Brakes
Hey Everyone
I've owned my amazing 2012 Patrol for about 2 years and 50,000kms. most of what I do is city driving for work and personal as it's my only vehicle. But I've done some off roading such as Fraser Is and some bush tracks. I'm sick of paying for servicing and want to do my own work as much as possible. I used to service all my cars in the past but not for a while. I'm about to replace my break rotors and pads and do an oil change. I have the parts I need but I don't know if I have all the tools. Other than standard wrenches, spanners clamps etc is there any thing else I will need?
-
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to fatnakedbaldtibetanman For This Useful Post:
MB (30th June 2023), Touses (1st July 2023)
-
30th June 2023 02:23 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
-
1st July 2023, 11:58 AM
#2
Patrol God
Welcome to the forum mate.
In the words of a Dhuck "QUACK".
-
-
1st July 2023, 07:39 PM
#3
Hardcore
Originally Posted by
fatnakedbaldtibetanman
Hey Everyone
I've owned my amazing 2012 Patrol for about 2 years and 50,000kms. most of what I do is city driving for work and personal as it's my only vehicle. But I've done some off roading such as Fraser Is and some bush tracks. I'm sick of paying for servicing and want to do my own work as much as possible. I used to service all my cars in the past but not for a while. I'm about to replace my break rotors and pads and do an oil change. I have the parts I need but I don't know if I have all the tools. Other than standard wrenches, spanners clamps etc is there any thing else I will need?
Easy job, you won’t need any special tools.
Cheers
Jack
2012 Simpson 50th Anniversary Edition.
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
-
-
2nd July 2023, 04:14 PM
#4
Expert
I just changed my front rotors, the most useful part was a block of wood between the ground and the wheel studs to lock up the wheels as I cranked the hub bolts.
2008 CRD Auto Wagon
Factory snorkel, flashlube catchcan pro, 3" manta exhaust, hpd boost controller, dyno-tuned & egr deleted
-
The Following User Says Thank You to pollenface For This Useful Post:
-
3rd July 2023, 11:22 AM
#5
Patrol Guru
It is a good thing to do it on stands instead of a jack. Not that I wouldn't do it on the jack if that was the only way I had, LOL.
-
-
3rd July 2023, 01:33 PM
#6
Patrol God
And the block of wood to sit behind the brake pedal, so you don't make the master cylinder travel past its normal range when bleeding air out of the system. There is a possibility that you'll snag the piston rubber on rust or debris and cause a fluid leak.
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
-
-
3rd July 2023, 04:07 PM
#7
Expert
Originally Posted by
mudnut
And the block of wood to sit behind the brake pedal, so you don't make the master cylinder travel past its normal range when bleeding air out of the system. There is a possibility that you'll snag the piston rubber on rust or debris and cause a fluid leak.
That's good info too, I didn't know about that.
When i changed my pads I used a brake piston compressor which just pushes the piston back in without the need to bleed, you just have to keep an eye on the level at the master cylinder and suck a bit out if needed.
Last edited by pollenface; 3rd July 2023 at 04:10 PM.
2008 CRD Auto Wagon
Factory snorkel, flashlube catchcan pro, 3" manta exhaust, hpd boost controller, dyno-tuned & egr deleted
-
-
3rd July 2023, 06:39 PM
#8
Patrol God
Its more for when you push the pedal to the floor to bleed the air, when fluid is changed. I only learnt the trick from a guru on this forum.
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
-