Compact Brake Line flaring Tool

[PeeBee]

I nicked a brake line a while ago so swapped out a complete line from the donor vehicle I had. Last week I filled the brake booster for the first time, headed off to work and came back into the shed today to fine all the fluid on the ground. After a bit of investigation it turned out the leak was from the fitting that terminates adjacent to the drivers side front wheel, but comes all the way from the rear of the vehicle.

I found the brake line I swapped out was slightly 'wobbly' despite the fitting being in hard and tight. After a great deal of effort that required disconnection of the other 4 lines I finally was able to pull the fitting out. It appears the 'old' fitting is stretched in the area of the first 4 threads and this is why it locked up solid.

I need to take this fitting off the brake line and put a new one on. I have one of the $35 ebay kits which works well on straight lines, however it is simply too large a clamping throat length to use as the brake line. has a 90 deg bend close to the termination point. I know long winded description.

I need a tool that is able to generate the flare in perhaps a 25mm length of tube, maybe shorter. I was thinking about the plumber copper flare device but they appear to be not suitable for steel lines.

Anyone know of a short footprint flare tool I could buy or done something in the shed to get around this once in a lifetime drama?

[mudski]

I used this one to make new steel brake lines for the horse float. Worked really well.



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[PeeBee]

Thanks Mark, I see its rated for copper, but for one fitting I guess it will work. I have ordered this one in the meantime, delivery Tuesday.https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/272124908712 and have this kit which is great, but too long unfortunately, https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/183678483840. I have the time to sort it out, but still a piss off. I might replace the marshalling block as well for the lines in case the threadform is distorted as well.

[mihit]

I'd suggest a kit that has the double-flaring dies aswell... but if you're just doing a one-off then all good.

I view tools as an investment, and do a whole lot of different stuff, so I get the best and most versatile ones I can.

[BrazilianY60]

I used this one to make new steel brake lines for the horse float. Worked really well.

Not sure of the type of flare that PeeBee needs, but this one is good only for single flares, usually done in copper tubes for low pressure stuff. For brake lines it is quite common to need double flares (or bubble flares as I once heard) and for that you need a tool with dies for a two step flaring method.

[BrazilianY60]

Thanks Mark, I see its rated for copper, but for one fitting I guess it will work. I have ordered this one in the meantime, delivery Tuesday.https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/272124908712 and have this kit which is great, but too long unfortunately, https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/183678483840. I have the time to sort it out, but still a piss off. I might replace the marshalling block as well for the lines in case the threadform is distorted as well.

The plier one could be the ticket as it seems to have dies. Unfortunately the add doesn't have pictures of it in action.
The one that looks like a bike handle does the job.

[PeeBee]

Not sure of the type of flare that PeeBee needs, but this one is good only for single flares, usually done in copper tubes for low pressure stuff. For brake lines it is quite common to need double flares (or bubble flares as I once heard) and for that you need a tool with dies for a two step flaring method.

Thanks, I need the rolled over flare for sure. The handle bar one I have does both and I found the tube split at the flare, even with copper line, so its important to not over stress the tube end. The instructions show how to set the tube and the nut is to be wound in 100% - too far. The double flare profile is very good.

[BrazilianY60]

The handle bar one I have does both and I found the tube split at the flare

Grease. Notice that in one of the adds the tool even comes with "special grease".
Anyhow, pressing the die against the tube without frictioning is always better, but that is a tool that requires room to do it, a stable base like a vise, etc.

[mudski]

Thanks Mark, I see its rated for copper, but for one fitting I guess it will work. I have ordered this one in the meantime, delivery Tuesday.https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/272124908712 and have this kit which is great, but too long unfortunately, https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/183678483840. I have the time to sort it out, but still a piss off. I might replace the marshalling block as well for the lines in case the threadform is distorted as well.

Mate it compressed the small steel tube with ease, and evenly. No leaks after I bled the brake system too!
If it were larger OD steel tube I would have some concerns, but not brake tube size.

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