Front Auto Hubs???

[10G]

I got the thump sound again this morning, due the crap roads, it's hard to notice, but you do notice it.

It's like when you drive on pavement with a locker on. You turn and a locked wheel slips, you get that kind of thump and you sense something has just released itself from being under pressure.

It's happened several times, but I can remember it happening at the same turn on the drive to work, about 1 km after leaving home.

This morning it sounded like it came from the middle of the vehicle.

Could the gearbox or transfer case bind/wind up if the breathers are blocked???? The thump seems come from the middle.

[mudnut]

Did you want to bring it to my joint to have a look at it?

[10G]

Did you want to bring it to my joint to have a look at it?

Yep. I'll PM you.

[pollenface]

I'm planning to remove the locking rings in my autohubs ... just use the wheel nut spanner to engage them when needed

[Maxhead]

I had this issue on both my GU6 and GU8, and the cheapest way is to convert to manual locking hub, like the vid muddy posted.
30min work,but then I had to get my lazy arse out of the car to lock/unlock


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[10G]

Yeah, I'm thinking of converting to manual.

Also thinking of fitting a Lokka diff in the front. Can't justify the cost of elocker or air locker, but the Lokka, it just squeezes in on cost.

[BrazilianY60]

Hence the auto trans fluid specification for the TC which confused me greatly until I think it was @mudnut who explained it, then it all made sense!

Well, ATF is not the only recommended oil for the TC, by Nissan's standards. I interpret this recommendation like this:
If you have an AUTO, then use ATF on the TC just in case seals fail between the AT and the TC, no harm is done.
If you have a MANUAL, then use the GL4 stuff the same as the MT, so if seals fail, again, no harm is done.

If the GL4 stuff (90w75, etc) is too thick for your location temperatures, then it may cause this that we are talking about. Just change to a thinner oil on the list (as long as it is GL4) and retry.

[mudnut]

Well, ATF is not the only recommended oil for the TC, by Nissan's standards. I interpret this recommendation like this:
If you have an AUTO, then use ATF on the TC just in case seals fail between the AT and the TC, no harm is done.
If you have a MANUAL, then use the GL4 stuff the same as the MT, so if seals fail, again, no harm is done.

If the GL4 stuff (90w75, etc) is too thick for your location temperatures, then it may cause this that we are talking about. Just change to a thinner oil on the list (as long as it is GL4) and retry.

My '94 manual GQ Transfer Case is listed to use ATF.

I had issues with crunching into gear when cold in a partially rebuilt gearbox. The mechanic that had fitted it for me, had added 5GL oil and his advice was to add a bit of ATF that will help with smooth cold changes. But being a new member of this forum, at the time, the advice from a member, to drain the gearbox oil and refill it with GL4 made all the difference. Another older mechanic had also suggested adding a bit of ATF as well. From this I have come to the conclusion that gearbox oil diluted ATF isn't so bad. But on saying that, there are numerous brass components in the Nissan manual boxes that might eventually be eroded by ATF.

[Plasnart]

…….But on saying that, there are numerous brass components in the Nissan manual boxes that might eventually be eroded by ATF.

And also GL5 apparently. That’s why it’s so important to stick with the lubes specified for your particular model.

[BrazilianY60]

GL5 on gearboxes suchs when cold and is bad for the syncros indeed.

Around here, GL4 is getting harder to find in different thickness specifications.