Rear Recovery Point in Tow Hitch

[nowoolies]

this is the only way to go .....imho

[Sir Roofy]

and worth while

[04OFF]

One point you are missing is that the HR bar is not rated for snatching. It is generally accepted in the 4WD world that a properly fitted HR bar (with high tensile rated bolts) is suitable for recovery - but you will never get it on paper from Hayman Reece..

True, but I doubt you will find Nissan actually "rate" any parts or hooks on a patrol when used for snatching, but at least the towbar has a placard with some sort of maximum rated capacity for towing.

When using this adaptor the force of the recovery is not spread over the entire length of the pin - it is focused on the holes in the HR bar and the holes in the adaptor (much like a shearing action happening on the pin)..

Im no engineer Bill, but id have thought It would be much harder to cut straight through (or sheer through) the pin in two places, rather than just bend it.

[Chappa]

And if you have a heavy duty strap such as ARB 11000Lb they wont fit staight into a reciever anyway.

[the ferret]

I just removed my tow "ball", and found a 4.7T rated bow shackle pin fits in the remaining tounge hole perfect ($15 Total)

And you only need keep the "towball" (and a spanner) in the car should you need to convert it back to a standard towball (instead of a complete tounge and ball)





The problem often overlooked, is with regard for the car you are recovering (or thats recovering you) , you may have a strong tow point, but if their "weaker" tow point breaks, its ALL coming YOUR way !

I keep a towball spanner and a spare 4.7T Bow shackle in my car, this way, i can easily convert anyones towbar into a safe recovery point in the same manner, should the situation arise.

NUP, forget that one mate, a young bloke was killed not too long ago, he was snatching off the towball,(deadly idea) but the tongue came away from the box section and the poor bloke wore the tongue AND towball combined.( weld broke on genuine Toyota towbar)
There is no way I would let anyone snatch me with that method. (shackle to tongue)
My advice to you as an experienced bushman who has seen most of it, would be to outlay a lousy $50, it may just save your life or someone elses one day. GET ONE!!

[Silver]

Using the pin is sort of ok except for two reasons:

1. The strap around the pin is smaller in width on the pin than a recovery hitch, hence placing greater strain on the pin across a smaller surface area
2. Further to point 1, in doing so, you run the very real prospect of bending the pin in the tow receiver - ever tried to get one out that's bent?? Be bloody hard mate.

The recovery hitch is solid through the centre where the pin goes and places surface area strain across the pin equally from side to side and having the snatch rope attached to the bow shackle allows slight angled movement of the snatch from side to side (if not a dead straight recovery) without placing too much strain directly on the pin and tow receiver.

Add to that trying to attach a snatch strap to a receiver pin whilst you waist deep in water and/or mud - no fun!! Far easier to a recovery hitch.

I'm sure there's a more scientific reason, however that's my philosophy and I personally never use just the pin - $50 for a recovery hitch is money well spent.

ever bent the 16mm pin Big Rig? (I confess I have the billet and shackle arrangement :-) )

[Silver]

Pleasure mate - slip this one in also - when Haymen Reece invented his tow assembly and receiver, he did it with "towing" in mind and subsequently the pin is meant to have load spread on it and generally speaking, those loads (towing) are substantially less force than an attached snatch strap recovery. Spreading the load by using appropriate equipment might seem an overkill, however if it means being able to use something that was designed for another use (towing), then what is $50 in the scheme of things??

A bent pin (or worse, a complete snap or separation) versus $50 ...

me again, feeling feisty tonight. Who knows how well the shackle is designed to cope with side loads with the bolt component captive, and not free to swivel to meet the load? :-) (and yes, I still have one of the billet and shackle jobs :-) )

[Silver]

I just removed my tow "ball", and found a 4.7T rated bow shackle pin fits in the remaining tounge hole perfect ($15 Total)

And you only need keep the "towball" (and a spanner) in the car should you need to convert it back to a standard towball (instead of a complete tounge and ball)

The problem often overlooked, is with regard for the car you are recovering (or thats recovering you) , you may have a strong tow point, but if their "weaker" tow point breaks, its ALL coming YOUR way !

I keep a towball spanner and a spare 4.7T Bow shackle in my car, this way, i can easily convert anyones towbar into a safe recovery point in the same manner, should the situation arise.

check for rust or other damage inside the square hollow section where it is welded to the 'tongue' bit.

[Silver]

this is the only way to go .....imho

agree that is your opinion nowoolies, but not necessarily with your opinion :-) But I do have one of those billet and shackle jobs

[the ferret]

And ya can forget this one too, anyone who sells these has no concience, this can rip the towball off and send that and the shackle at 300ks/hr in one side of your head and out the other, through the back window and another 60 meters, then it will stop, hit the ground and then others will see some of your BRAINS fall off.
I suggest anyone looking at recovery hooks, shackles, straps and towing eyes, to do some research on this forum and any others where you can find the info needed to make a safe purchase.