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Thread: Gq rb30et r31 loom help

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    Gq rb30et r31 loom help

    Hey guys this could be a mouthful but here goes.

    Due to some melting and a little rushed wiring I've changed out the VL loom in my gq for an R31 loom. Heres where it gets annoying... I have it wired up with the typical pinout for this loom and no good news followed, I've run constant and 12V ignition still no go, she's fully earthed, still no go, I can get her to turn over but she won't fire, I spray some degreaser down the throttle and she wants to fire so I know I have spark, my issue is I don't hear my injectors pulse, I can loop the injector wiring at the ecu plug end and hear them pulse but I can't leave it in such a way. My earths are heating when I try and start and my positive terminal was hot as hell so I know theres a problem.

    I've joined the usual pins but nothing, I thought maybe my ignition isn't giving enough constant so I switched the wire to battery, nothing. The 3 pin plug I'm not sure is even doing anything, I can bridge pin 6 to anything I like key on or off and hear the green eccs relay ping off its rocker. If someone has direct pictures of the R31 wired in to and from locations on an rb30et gq that would be great so I can double check every last tiny connection against the images shared.

    I followed everything for it and the result is disappointing, I've read every forum post available and still no result produced, Pictures are worth a thousand words if someone can help I'd appriciate it.

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  3. #2
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    The main problem is manufacturers constantly changing things even on the same model. It sounds as if you have a short somewhere, or a faulty component. You may have to trace each wire from its source to its termination. I know it's a horribly tedious job but other than that...

    http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...EFI-Conversion
    Last edited by mudnut; 5th October 2021 at 08:23 PM.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

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    Any and all problems are welcomed, even the fixes people have done. I've been over this engine bay at the very least 40 times. Everything says I should have a running vehicle however I don't. Even if a problem isn't my issue it's possible it could indirectly be a contributing factor worth looking into.

    I've spent so much time on this that I may very well be so focused on what it's doing and over looking the tiniest thing. Let's throw a hypothetical in the mix, I have fuel, I have spark, I have fire when I spray down the throttle but I lack fire when I don't spray into the throttle.... Is it possible despite having fuel everywhere it needs to be along with having all the components required to start that maybe fuel pressure is the issue? I mean lack of fuel pressure would ultimately neglect fuel coming through the injectors even if they were pulsing which would result in not firing correct?

    Sometimes just seeing issues others have had, an image of where they connected, how they fixed it is enough to spark a brain storm. I've searched forum after forum after hundreds of relentless posts, it could even be that maybe the directions I've been following are incorrect but I tried direct battery and ignition direct for the 3 pin plug and couldn't get it to so much as send power to the ecu instead had to hard wire direct to the ecu pinouts.

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    After looking closer I have noticed I have little to no fuel pressure so I'm putting in my brand new FPE240 high flow pump, approx 70psi, 250L per hour delivery, e.g 4.8bar according to all the specs I have found and other users specs against manufacturer specs check out to being ok.

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    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    Yes fuel pressure needs to be upgraded from the original pump used by the carby. Stupid question; since you replaced the loom, have you also deleted the low idle fuel return solenoid from the fuel system. It remains open at idle so the fuel pressure is not too great for the carby. It only closes when a signal is picked up by the Engine revolution sensor.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

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    There's a good chance I haven't, I'm running the low pressure in tank and my high flow is in line at the engine bay so I can hear it and know pressure that end is fine. I have an issue though, I out mg high flow on an individual relay, constant when key is on, shuts iff when key does but theres still no fuel in the return line, I sat with the pump working and the return line disconnected and still nothing in the return 🤔

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    So even with the solenoid removed and the return direct to the fuel line I still get nothing at the return 🤔 I'm not sure where my fuel is going but it doesn't come out anywhere

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    There should also be a timing circuit on the fuel pump relay, that allows oil pressure to take over and connect the pump. I found the circuit is dead on two I got from the wreckers as well as the one that came with the car. It is a safety for when oil pressure is lost.

    Does the fuel regulator need vacuum to let fuel return to the tank.
    Last edited by mudnut; 6th October 2021 at 06:19 PM.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

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    It is a vacuum actuator in the middle of the inlet where fuel lines connect before it enters or leaves the rail.

    I havn't looked into that but I will now, anything else I should be aware of? If she won't play ball within the next 2 weeks I'll have to send her to the shop. Could even be the ecu not performing correctly e.g needing auto electrician attention but the chances of 2 ecu's doing the exact same thing tells me that something is wrong.

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    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    You need someone who has done the conversion to help you now. I've sent a message to one member who has done the conversion, but I haven't seen him on here for a while.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

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