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Thread: Gq rb30et r31 loom help

  1. #11
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    Muchly appriciated mudnut, thank you. It's starting to do my head in lol, same issue I had with the vl loom and ecu, changed the ecu and loom to r31 after the vl loom gave up on life and the same issue so I'm running out of things to look at and do 😅 I expected it wasn't going to be the most simple execution but I didn't expect an issue this big. If I can atleast get her to fire i'll be able to do anything else required to complete it. Auto electrician guys said I don't need to put the intercooler kit etc in for them to do their job so I have 2 weeks to get her going or she is heading into the shop, they asked what needed to be done so I told them about the loom swap to make less work and just needed her to run so I can complete the rest of the required stuff like my intercooler kit etc. Gave me a good price between $300-$500 so it's not too bad off if that's the route I have to take. I'm by no means inexperienced with electricals or conversions but this is my first with the rb30et and it just won't play ball 😬 I think it is something simple but it has me chasing my tail and I need to be finished before december as I am taking my kids to Queensland to be with family for the holidays instead of being stuck in Victoria lol.

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  3. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudnut View Post
    You need someone who has done the conversion to help you now. I've sent a message to one member who has done the conversion, but I haven't seen him on here for a while.
    Hey mate, an auto sparky confirmed a hit and miss issue with RB's, even with the entire loom powered and still powering while cranking the injectors lose all voltage in some cases however not many present with a way to diagnose it. I've now got injector pulse and spark after bridging the injector power to an in car fuse for the fix. Now I just need to swap the low pressure in tank pump with the high pressure pump to gain my fuel pressure for the RB30ET. I muchly appriciate you responding to my post, you gave me some food for thought.

  4. #13
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    So glad you got it sorted, and posted your fix. It might help someone else in your predicament.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

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    rusty_nail (16th October 2021)

  6. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudnut View Post
    So glad you got it sorted, and posted your fix. It might help someone else in your predicament.
    Absolutely, there's been quite a few bits and bobs I've had to do. I can confirm the fuel meiser fpe-240 can be used in tank as a single stand alone pump for the rb30e and rb30et conversion, held strong at 80psi in the rail so if anyone is out of idea's for fuel pumps it's a good way to go however if using a stock pump holder give it a 45° bend and run a 5cm hose cut off on it with a filter, this will sit it on the bottom of the tank with no pickup issues. Can confirm the build will run fine on an N/A R31 ecu. Change the fpr either turbosmart or another known brand will do you justice, I went with a saas rising rate fpr with a 100psi gauge and have had no issues with it at all however I made my appropriate adjustments while the car was running. There is absolutely no need to change the fuel pump relay or add an extra relay in for this let alone even cut anything on the loom (I cut because I heat shrinked my splices). If you're still using the gq loom for starter and alt this is fine, no modification to it is neccessary and the standard oil pressure sensor will work fine until you upgrade to a more reliable gauge or sensor. You don't have to run an intercooler to begin with aslong as you keep your boost between 1-8psi but I don't recommend that in any sense as the hot air direct can and likely will produce pre detonation.

    I've seen a lot of people wanting to get away from the waterfeed banjo on the block the corse thread is 1.5 in size and you can get a hose flange to suit it if you wish to cut the alloy pipe to fit a water hose instead (have left the banjo on the turbo itself due to limited space) if low mount this really makes life a bit easier.

    If you have trouble removing the auto spigot from the rear of the crank if it has one use butter or bearing grease and a half inch socket extension bar(worked a treat) or you can get a steel chisel and cut the face to split it.

    On the original gq loom it is also suitable to use the coolant temp sensor if your not ready to upgrade to after market.

    Can confirm all the gq front of enginer gear and brackets will bolt straight to the block if you want to keep the V belt instead of going to the vl ribbed belt. If you are a 4x4 mud nut like myself it is a fantadtic idea to change to the V belts because they push out the debris a lot better than the ribbed belt.

    If fitting a FMIC you can keep your aircon if you make a slight pipe modification to the air condensor unit and remove the front center support bar and use the intercooler as the new support.

    Making life easier on the safari snorkel front entry setup avoid the factory airbox idea's and go to an after market setup with a flexi air induction pipe to run from the snorkel to the new airbox, most come with 3" - 2.5" silicon joiners, 3" clamps, holding bracket, filter, housing unit and 3" in/out flexi air induction pipe. This will save a lot of stuffing around and cutting to fit to the turbo intake.

    The standard AFM bolt end can be cut flush with a die grinder to the inner circle outter ridge which will give you about a 2.8" diameter right round suitable to fit to a 3" joiner with clamp to save buying the adapter online and waiting for shipping (there's nothing in these plastics that will hinder or damage the parts function), the standard joiner size for the regular clamp on end is 2.75" and the standard T3 turbo outlet will use a 2" joiner to plumb out.

    If you don't wish to replace radiator hoses and radiator yet take your flanges for in and out from your gq engine, they will directly bolt onto the vl setup. The hoses for the heater tap are shorter and you'll be in need of sourcing longer pipes. Get a T piece to put in so you can run of that into a reducer and then to the turbo water return.

    The oil return to the block is a 3/8 npt flange fitting and can be located at most if not all part supply stores.

    If your running a high pressure fuel pump it isn't neccessary to have the check valve left on, most of these pumps have a back stop valve incorporated to reduce fuel coming back through the pump, unbolt this and fit a standard hose flange if your not ready to spend the extra money on parts to complete that kind of modification.


    If anyone comes across this post and is in the process of the conversion feel free to ask any questions, I've done this all myself without visiting a mechanic or auto electrician. Don't be affraid to ask for a little help, I can even manage a few pictures if you get a little lost.

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    mudnut (23rd October 2021)

  8. #15
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    All this good info is added to the Conversion thread.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

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