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Thread: 10w solar panel charging

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    SUCH IS LIFE Maxhead's Avatar
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    10w solar panel charging

    I’m sure I seen it here somewhere but couldn’t find it now…lol

    I want to keep my tractor and car batteries topped up at the farm so my question is can I hook up a 10w panel unregulated straight to the battery and leave for extended periods of time to keep my batteries charged?

    I’m happy to use a regulator if it’s necessary

    This is the panel

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-10W-...154756-20017-0


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    Patrol Guru TimE's Avatar
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    This Jaycar one would suggest that it would be OK unregulated.
    Time Marches On .....and on ..... and on

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    I’ve got quite a few 20W unregulated Jaycar ones too around the property Krisso Mate
    There is a thread somewhere on here where Gurus like ET & PeeBee kindly ok’d the idea but did suggest I should go bigger than 10W in the darker valley areas.
    All still working fine, haven’t lost a battery since


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    SUCH IS LIFE Maxhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MB View Post
    I’ve got quite a few 20W unregulated Jaycar ones too around the property Krisso Mate
    There is a thread somewhere on here where Gurus like ET & PeeBee kindly ok’d the idea but did suggest I should go bigger than 10W in the darker valley areas.
    All still working fine, haven’t lost a battery since


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    Cheers mate, yeah I was looking for that thread as I remember reading something about it


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    You can upwards of 120ah with a blocking diode (so it doesn't back-feed at night).

    I found with batteries less than 120ah the voltage would eventually get up to 15ish as the days went by, which is not ideal methinks.

    Less than 120ah I would use a 5w panel.

    You should choose a blocking diode which is rated 200% of the solar panels short circuit current (isc).
    Last edited by pollenface; 26th September 2021 at 09:24 PM.
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    SUCH IS LIFE Maxhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pollenface View Post
    You can upwards of 120ah with a blocking diode (so it doesn't back-feed at night).

    I found with batteries less than 120ah the voltage would eventually get up to 15ish as the days went by, which is not ideal methinks.

    Less than 120ah I would use a 5w panel.

    You should choose a blocking diode which is rated 200% of the solar panels short circuit current (isc).
    They are just cranking batteries not deep cycle.
    Ranging from 400cca to 800cca
    Just needed something simple to keep them topped up while I’m away
    The deep cycles I have running through a reg.


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    1) the panels are rated at 1000/m2 solar density
    2)Australia only gets a max of 600w/m2 in the very best of locations, and you need a solar tracker to ensure the panel is aligned with the sun for max absorbtion, which you wont have
    3) couple these two parameters together and you are probably getting 6/10 on panel rating for 2-3 hrs/day = 6w =0.5amps for 3hrs, = total 1.5amps trickle feed
    You wont need a regulator for this.
    I have a 6a/hr battery being trickle fed with 20w of solar panel, been that way for 13 yrs, still good as gold.

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    SUCH IS LIFE Maxhead's Avatar
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    Thanks Phil

    I’ve lost too many batteries over time


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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxhead View Post
    They are just cranking batteries not deep cycle.
    the size still matters
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    For the life of me I can’t find that original thread Gents but have no doubt that Pollenface Mate is onto something known also we should consider.
    IIRC in the other thread my initial concern on a deeper/shadier gully diesel dam pump battery was when I found it swollen/dead which I assumed was the 5W super cheapo solar panel over charging it unregulated.
    As it was completely caput I couldn’t test it for being overcharged but was kindly enlightened that over winter it had not received enough charge and calcium (i think educated) build up was the cause of the expansion🥲
    My tractor circa 800cca lead acid battery hasn’t faulted for years now with its 20w Jaycar in the most direct sunlight panel position possible on the block but it also has a fairly decent parasitic drain coming from the starter motor diodies too I believe which may negate overcharging possibly?


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