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12th July 2021, 10:06 PM
#21
Originally Posted by
jff45
I replaced the single rear braided line this morning and noticed that all the calipers also have a short rubber line.
Those of you who went braided, did you change the calliper lines as well? It strikes me that it would be silly not to change them all.
Yes I changed all. Pointless to not in my opinion...
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12th July 2021 10:06 PM
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Circuit advertisement
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12th July 2021, 10:07 PM
#22
Originally Posted by
jff45
At the moment I’m leaning towards all braided except for the front calipers. New rubber is probably the better option there.
Edit: I've just come across this in my research:
From Roadrunner Offroad " We will not supply the front caliper lines in Braided, Our supplier has been instructed by head office, not to produce or sell them, even if specially requested, As the line is too short and the braided line does not have as much give, it can cause the line to fail. We are able to do them on the rear though."
Edit again: Getting a bit confusing when I see that Marks 4WD sell the braided lines for the front calipers.
I got mine from Marks, maybe 3 or so years ago. Zero issues since...
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13th July 2021, 06:33 AM
#23
Patrol Guru
Mmm been toying with the idea of charging my brake rotors. Got the bigger gq set in the shed but thought may add well get new rotors befit I install.
Anyone has issue with cracking etc when going through river crossings? Only something I've got in my head from somewhere but dunno if it happens or not
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
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13th July 2021, 08:10 AM
#24
Originally Posted by
matfew
Mmm been toying with the idea of charging my brake rotors. Got the bigger gq set in the shed but thought may add well get new rotors befit I install.
Anyone has issue with cracking etc when going through river crossings? Only something I've got in my head from somewhere but dunno if it happens or not
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Ive heard that aswell. But that could happen to any rotor if its hot enough then hits the chilly mountain water.
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13th July 2021, 08:17 AM
#25
Patrol Freak
Originally Posted by
mudski
Yes I changed all. Pointless to not in my opinion...
I've been waiting for you to chime in
John
2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body
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13th July 2021, 04:53 PM
#26
Patrol Freak
I’m happy to follow the experience so I’ve ordered all braided for front and rear calipers.
The 3 main lines chassis to diff were $149 (ABS model) and the 4 lines for the calipers were $183 with a 5% code.
I won’t bother with the front until the rotors turn up.
John
2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body
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13th July 2021, 08:29 PM
#27
Ever thought about rebuilding the calipers while your at it? I rebuilt the TB48 calipers I bought prior to fitting, and also the rear calipers, wasn't hard to do. Also piece of mind. Plus I did find two pistons were pitted so I replaced them.
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13th July 2021, 10:42 PM
#28
Patrol Freak
Mine only have 160k.
If I’d bought 2nd hand calipers I’d look at overhauling them but they show no signs of needing attention yet.
John
2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body
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15th July 2021, 10:43 AM
#29
Patrol Freak
I was going through the factory BR.PDF this morning before I start changing brake stuff and noticed in the specs that there doesn’t appear to be any difference between the TB48 booster & master cylinder and the other Y61 models.
I’m happy to be corrected on this but I found it interesting in view of the recent thread on 4.8 booster and @mudski mention of using a 4.8 master cylinder which had me thinking that might be an easy swap also for me but there’s apparently no difference with what I have.
Here’s a not very good shot I took with my phone of my MacBook screen
425DA1A5-49A2-42AB-81D8-4F5F5C80F20E.jpeg
John
2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body
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15th July 2021, 11:43 AM
#30
Patrol Freak
John
2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body
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