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Thread: Engine Running Sense Wire???

  1. #11
    Patrol Guru 0-TJ-0's Avatar
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    If you do want to connect it you can run a wire direct from the ignition or find a suitable fuse and run a fuse tap from down by your right knee. I'm not an auto elec but for the minimal current draw something like this might be your easiest solution;

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-x-Add-....m46890.l49286
    2003 GU TD42 with a few extra ponies

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    10G (7th June 2021)

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  4. #12
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    Just hook up to the ignition. Simple. Renogy a simply using the term "sense" wire. Quick flick through the manual it actually does cut off at a certain volt threshold.
    2005 TD42TI

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  6. #13
    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0-TJ-0 View Post
    It will charge full time/even if the engine is stopped if you do that. My ctek has the same wire, apparently the smart alternators don't always reach the "on voltage" required to activate the charger so you need to connect that wire to a 12v ignition source. You can try it without it, my (Gu) alternator looks close to standard(non smart) voltages. I've never seen mine drop below 12.7 when running and usually hits 14.1 when first started.
    I did say “if it really needs that wire connected” to turn on. The VSR should handle it from there. I don’t believe it will continue to charge until the main battery runs flat.
    My Projecta IDC25 continues to charge when I switch off until the main battery gets down to 12.7v

    Just had a look at the Renogy wiring and it apparently needs that wire to switch it on. Strange if it has a VSR already..
    Last edited by jff45; 6th June 2021 at 11:43 AM.
    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

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    Patrol Guru 0-TJ-0's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jff45 View Post
    I did say ďif it really needs that wire connectedĒ to turn on. The VSR should handle it from there. I donít believe it will continue to charge until the main battery runs flat.
    My Projecta IDC25 continues to charge when I switch off until the main battery gets down to 12.7v

    Just had a look at the Renogy wiring and it apparently needs that wire to switch it on. Strange if it has a VSR already..
    I wasn't trying to be short with ya mate. I never ran the main battery down far enough through the ctek to see what voltage it would stop at. I assume you're right and wouldn't run it flat. Nice to shut it down with 2 batteries at full charge though.
    2003 GU TD42 with a few extra ponies

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    Quote Originally Posted by jff45 View Post
    I did say ďif it really needs that wire connectedĒ to turn on. The VSR should handle it from there. I donít believe it will continue to charge until the main battery runs flat.
    My Projecta IDC25 continues to charge when I switch off until the main battery gets down to 12.7v

    Just had a look at the Renogy wiring and it apparently needs that wire to switch it on. Strange if it has a VSR already..
    My Intervolt is the same, if its on the "Ignition" option it will ONLY run if IGN is on and will only cut off if minimum volt threshold is reached.
    But there is a voltage sense option too.
    2005 TD42TI

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    10G (7th June 2021)

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    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
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    I wonder why they have that option. It obviously canít be switched on when itís getting solar input so why have it with vehicle charge.
    12.7 is normal standing voltage for a battery so itís not like the DC/DC is hurting the main battery when the vehicle is switched off.
    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

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    Quote Originally Posted by jff45 View Post
    I wonder why they have that option. It obviously canít be switched on when itís getting solar input so why have it with vehicle charge.
    12.7 is normal standing voltage for a battery so itís not like the DC/DC is hurting the main battery when the vehicle is switched off.
    Intervolt will kick the unit into action if it detects Solar volts. But in IGN mode, it will entirely isolate its self from main battery if IGN is off, no matter what.
    2005 TD42TI

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    I am he, fear me the evil twin's Avatar
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    I haven't had anything to do with the Renology stuff but every other Dc/Dc I have installed/played with the "sense wire" is only req'd if the vehicle is a smart alternator config.

    Old school vehicles you leave that wire disconnected and the VSR does all the work.

    The sense wire is there if/when the Alt drops below the VSR cutout due to the "smart" Alternator function of the ECU dropping to, say 12.8.
    The sense wire input then overrides the VSR low volt cut and the DC/DC keeps working.

    If you do need the sense wire connected on a "dumb" Alternator vehicle to get the Renolgy to work at all then any of the "Ign On" circuits will be your best bet
    Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.

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    Patrol Freak 10G's Avatar
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    Ah, I think you guys are looking at the combined DC-DC & MPPT models. I've got just the DC-DC model & a seperate MPPT charge controller. See below ...

    20210606_170451.jpg

    I went this way as the seperate MPPT can take up to 100v solar input, where as the combined unit can take up to 25v solar input, it's a more efficient way to use the solar panels I have.
    ..

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    0-TJ-0 (7th June 2021), jff45 (7th June 2021), trev zd30 (12th June 2021)

  20. #20
    Patrol Freak 10G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0-TJ-0 View Post
    If you do want to connect it you can run a wire direct from the ignition or find a suitable fuse and run a fuse tap from down by your right knee. I'm not an auto elec but for the minimal current draw something like this might be your easiest solution;

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-x-Add-....m46890.l49286
    Thanks 0-TJ-0, that's what I'm looking for. Do they call those adaptors 'add a circuit' or something??? Anyway, bloody useful.
    ..

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