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Does anyone have experience with this alternator from Patrolapart?
When travelling with the camper in tow I am charging a 900cca starter battery and a total of 450 ah of lifep04 in the Patrol and camper. I run 3 fridges, 2 50l Waecos in the Patrol and a 75l fridge freezer in the camper. I like lots of frozen food and cold beer!
Good timing - I was just looking at these this afternoon. I was winching (Runva) two weeks ago with high idle and it was noticeably slow, and sslower than my mates Carbon winch in his 200Series. I didn’t have a volt meter to hand but made me wonder whether it was that the alternator couldn’t keep up and there was a big voltage drop across the battery from the winch draw.
Pretty sure it’s exactly the same but was only $350-$400 off the top of my head.
Haven’t had any issues so far.
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2006 4.2 tdi wagon
TJM BullBar and bar work, Light bar & spotlights, Airtech snorkel, tradie rack, blocked egr, 2inch lift on 33s and a 3 inch exhaust to go with it all.
Plenty more to come!
There are quite a few variables here, but if you simply look at the battery as a bucket, the alternator as the tap filling the bucket and the winch draw as the hole, the 'flowrate from your tap is heaps smaller than your flowrate from the hole', ie 130amps in, 400amps out( or whatever you winch is pulling but it wont be 130amps unless its got no load). The water level in the bucket is depleted. You can alleviate this to some degree by larger battery capacity, ie size, to reduce the rate of fall from the bucket level, but ultimately, if you dont have an alternator matching the discharge rate, your battery voltage will fall, and the winch will slowdown. I run a 300amp alternator for the infrequent times I have need to use the rear Warn 15000lb winch, and have 400ah of 900cca battery in the back. The 15000 will pull up to 500a if pushed, but there is enough reserve to increase the point where the slowdown will ultimately happen. Hope this helps.
At what RPM do/can these actually achieve the 130A? That is a A LOT of juice.
I recently bought the Hitachi alternator from Patrolapart. My old one (original 16yo unit) began acting and sounding funny so I acted before it leaves me stranded.
After a cold start ,battery taking a hit from starter motor/glow plugs, I found the new unit pushing 50A-ish at around 2000rpm. As the revs go up from there, the results are diminishing.
Point being, unless you're winching/revving the up, is there much usable benefit in these high output units for just charging dual battery systems etc????
A more important thing I noticed when I changed over my alternator is the cable from the alternator to the battery is absolutely s#ithouse. Old, annealed. No way in hell the diameter of it can push 100A IMO. Especially with the age of these motors. You'll really want to look at upgrading this, especially if you're going high output route.
I got some proper cable and lugs ready to go in mine.
The performance curves are hard to find for td42 specific alternators. Maybe a very good auto electrc company could get them.
Your observations are correct with the cable from the alternator @Hodge . If you can limit the voltage drop to high current devices then it goes a long way to keeping the maximum current pulled as low as possible. A 130A alternator is heaps for 99.9% of people's applications.
FWIW: 120A tops 130A I believe is the MAX a single 13A belt can safely drive too.
I managed to score a pimped up GQTD42 180A jobbie years ago for my 6.5 GU.
Initially it cooked the diodes under stress until @PeeBee kindly ordered me in an external rectifier pack from the States. That fixed the cooking issue no problem but unfortunately the next problem became belt slippage under heavy loads duress.
The Evil Twin Legend on here kindly posted up a graph somewhere years ago helping us which listed the required belt/s V & Serpentine variants required for higher output alternators
FWIW: 120A tops 130A I believe is the MAX a single 13A belt can safely drive too.
I managed to score a pimped up GQTD42 180A jobbie years ago for my 6.5 GU.
Initially it cooked the diodes under stress until @PeeBee kindly ordered me in an external rectifier pack from the States. That fixed the cooking issue no problem but unfortunately the next problem became belt slippage under heavy loads duress.
The Evil Twin Legend on here kindly posted up a graph somewhere years ago helping us which listed the required belt/s V & Serpentine variants required for higher output alternators
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I sell some seriously heavy duty 13A belts at work Marko. The Gates Fleetrunner range are top notch. Phil and Eric can vouch for them.
I sell some seriously heavy duty 13A belts at work Marko. The Gates Fleetrunner range are top notch. Phil and Eric can vouch for them.
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It’s a slippage issue I’ve found Mr Mark Mate!
Fleetrunner are the strength bomb for sure but surface area versus loading I believe now is the greater issue?