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Thread: Micro Short Circuiting on Solar Panels

  1. #11
    Patrol Freak
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    @Cuppa - wow! Thanks mate. That is a great explanation and gives me something to work on.

    I haven't yet measured and compared the output of the panels and will have to replace my multi-meter first (cheap nasty one fell apart yesterday). The wiring may also be on the small side and the panel with the 'worming' is the second panel of the two in the string. The cells that are damaged are the ones furthest away from the controller also.

    I have no idea what a 'blocking diode' is, but no doubt my local Jaycar guy will.

    By the sounds of it, this sort of thing could happen to any and all solar panels without the blocking diodes? eg. an expensive panel might also have the same problem as these eBay ones.
    Between Patrols ATM. Had a beaut GU with 6.5 Chev TD. Next is a GU ute with a 4.5 litre Cummins conversion and a camper on the back.

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  3. #12
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    A blocking diode as I understand it is an ‘electrical one way valve’ to stop back flow. I’m only guessing that fitting one may help. However heavier cabling is probably the better solution I’d think. Blocking diodes will be cheap, & I don’t think doing both would do any harm.

    I would hope that any 12v panels made for mobile use would still have blocking diodes fitted, but who knows? I do recall in my early RV days folk having issues with batteries discharging through the panels at night & blocking diodes being the solution.... before they became standard fitments.

    Easiest way to check output of panels, if you can get to the individual positive/negative cables is with a dc clamp meter. They can be had fairly cheaply, or come as a combined multi meter/clamp meter. Need to check they are suitable for dc though. Some are only good for ac.
    Last edited by Cuppa; 25th August 2020 at 08:26 AM.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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