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Thread: Do catch cans "brands" matter should I fit one? GR/GU 2002 Y61 3.0 Di

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    Do catch cans "brands" matter should I fit one? GR/GU 2002 Y61 3.0 Di

    Hi,

    Just got a 2002 GR Y61 3.0 with 260,000 km on it. Going through bits and pieces so far so good (changed glow plugs, swapped fuel filter lift pump for a genuine as last owner had fitted an aftermarket one that hardly works, fuel filter, water sensor, ordered a new intercooler as original's leaking, got an oil filter and good brand 10w40 oil for a full oil change this weekend...).

    Now, I've learnt it's good to fit a catch can on the ZD30. Did some search and found a famous car and trucks manufacturer has their own catch can fitted to some engines. And...it's really cheap to buy! So, question is does the catch can brand really matter? Actually the one I'm after looks solid and has a filter in it and looks actually good. What are your thoughts? I'm just thinking, if it's factory fitted in some big diesel engines, then it should be "good" for the ZD30(?).

    Have you say...

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    I've used the same AutoBarn Cheap'ish $120 SAAS Baffled Oil Catch Can again that I had on my D22 for about 5 years, fitted one again (in March 2020 I think) on my ZD30 CRD Patrol I got last December 2019.

    It has a drain hose that sits in the Nearside wheel arch, I'd say I drain about 20 - 30ml each time I remember to look, so maybe every 3000 - 5000k's.

    I figure one is better then none fitted.
    Grant

    Penrith Region
    Sydney NSW.

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    gr2y61 (14th August 2020)

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    Have caught about 400ml (more than a stubby worth) in 10,000km with a Flashlube Catchcan Pro.

    It cost $229 from SCA and has a replaceable fibrous filter ($35) & relief valve.
    Last edited by pollenface; 13th August 2020 at 02:48 PM.
    2008 CRD Auto Wagon
    Factory snorkel, flashlube catchcan pro, 3" manta exhaust, hpd boost controller, dyno-tuned & egr deleted

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    gr2y61 (14th August 2020)

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    Sounds interesting. Especially when I spent most of the afternoon cleaning the throttle body. It was absolutely awful, seems that's never been cleaned before. Full of carbon and soot. The reward was I now have a like new throttle body. Also cleaned what was obvious and could see on the intake. It was nearly blocked.

    So I guess this is all somehow related to the fact there was no catch can fitted here. The one I'm talking about above costs 120 euros including vat. That's roughly AUD 200. It's got a drain pipe bit that normally goes back to the sump. But I'll just clip a good length of hose and put a tap in the end for easy drain.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gr2y61 View Post
    Sounds interesting. Especially when I spent most of the afternoon cleaning the throttle body. It was absolutely awful, seems that's never been cleaned before. Full of carbon and soot. The reward was I now have a like new throttle body. Also cleaned what was obvious and could see on the intake. It was nearly blocked.

    So I guess this is all somehow related to the fact there was no catch can fitted here. The one I'm talking about above costs 120 euros including vat. That's roughly AUD 200. It's got a drain pipe bit that normally goes back to the sump. But I'll just clip a good length of hose and put a tap in the end for easy drain.
    You might want to spend another day or two removing the intake manifold and giving that a clean if your throttle body was bad. No catch can and a functioning EGR valve is the root of all evil in a diesel motor. Get a catch can that works, ie one with an actual filter, and block the EGR.
    Last edited by mudski; 14th August 2020 at 03:59 PM.

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    Definitely keep going with the internal cleaning!
    Are you getting the injectors and EGR overhauled/replaced?

    Catch tanks are great for any engine, especially if you are running an engine tune and therefore more boost, as you will be producing more blow by gasses / crank pressure.

    Flow is the key and I would suggest at least 19mm ID plumbing.
    The baffled tanks are a great off the shelf option but a little restricted on the plumbing size.
    If you can get a tank fabricated a simply tall box or cylinder, with a dividing wall on the inlet side means all gases/vapour oil etc hits the wall on entry, condenses and drops to the bottom.
    This single baffle is very easy to clean also.

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