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Thread: Zd30 common rail overheating

  1. #11
    Expert Mickhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReggieRay View Post
    nipagu7 where is the maf sensor? anyone on Brisbane southside can help? can pay $$
    viscous fan providing plenty of resistance when I try to spin it, spinning 1/4 at best
    happygu flush out the block? what do you mean flush out the block? before radiator change, it was only getting hot on highway, now radiator and thermostat changed, it gets hot everywhere, usually after around 15 minutes of driving, but often drops back to halfway after about 30 seconds to a minute, then goes up again randomly, sometimes not for a while though.
    is there any recall on this faulty batch of 2007s?
    Seriously is it REALLY getting hot or are you going by the gauge? Temp sensor Fukked up?

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  3. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mickhead View Post
    Seriously is it REALLY getting hot or are you going by the gauge? Temp sensor Fukked up?
    Yeah I was thinking that maybe too. Dodgy temp sender...


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  4. #13
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    An airlock can cause overheating.

    Have you burped the air out of the system. Park the vehicle with the nose slightly up hill. When the engine is cool, take off the radiator cap and tape a half 1.25 l plastic soft drink bottle to the radiator neck. Take the overflow hose off at the overflow bottle and tape it up to the bottle, or block it so water doesn't flow out.

    Turn the car on and run it until all the air comes out the neck. Squeeze the hoses to help move any air. On my petrol engine there is an air bleeding screw near the thermostat. I don't know if the ZD has one or not.
    Last edited by mudnut; 12th June 2020 at 06:14 PM.

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    Patrol God Dhuck's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum mate.
    In the words of a Dhuck "QUACK".

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    thanks.. yes definitely getting hot, crimps on the new radiator getting push outwards.. will try putting a roll of newspaper in the fan tomorrow, resisting at cold temp.. anyone in brisbane can help diagnose? can buy you a slab if we make a breakthrough lol located southside.. want to try this air removal trick.. how can I block the overflow hose? tape it up to the bottle? what do you mean?
    when it gets too hot, radiator is vibrating a little and some gushing water noises coming from inside the rad..

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    The gushing sound is probably steam. Are you sure the radiator is not blocked?
    Manufacturer of the Complete Camp Oven System

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    Quote Originally Posted by mudnut View Post
    An airlock can cause overheating.

    Have you burped the air out of the system. Park the vehicle with the nose slightly up hill. When the engine is cool, take off the radiator cap and tape a half 1.25 l plastic soft drink bottle to the radiator neck. Take the overflow hose off at the overflow bottle and tape it up to the bottle, or block it so water doesn't flow out.

    Turn the car on and run it until all the air comes out the neck. Squeeze the hoses to help move any air. On my petrol engine there is an air bleeding screw near the thermostat. I don't know if the ZD has one or not.
    You don't need to burp the cooling system on those Craig. They are a self burping system in a nut shell.

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    how can I tell if it's blocked?? it's a new radiator..

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    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    You don't need to burp the cooling system on those Craig. They are a self burping system in a nut shell.

    Good to know. Thanks, Mark.

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    Sounds like a lot of people adding suggestions,
    Iíll try add what others havenít.
    Does the top radiator hose and bottom radiator hose feel the same? In two ways when itís hot/running temp are both hoses feeling the same temperature or is one really hot and the other cold? They should be same when running at operating temperature. If they they are feeling a lot different then that indicated the cooling system isnít circulating coolant can be a few reasons then like thermostat stuck (I know you fitted new one but Iíve seen new parts out of a box be faulty) or blocked radiator.
    Also when squishing the hoses you should feel if there is water inside or air, if the donít feel the same when squeezed then it could be air and that would explain the heating..
    Canít remember if someone already said to check drive belt, that obviously runs water pump and if the hydraulic tensioner is failing then the belt might not be spinning the water pump enough.
    Iíll wait to head how you go with those hose hope the resolute start pointing you in a direction for diagnosing

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