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Thread: Zd30 common rail overheating

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    Zd30 common rail overheating

    hi, I'm Reggie, I got a zd30 common rail 2007 overheating, changed radiator and thermostat, no luck, passed Teekay test and leak down test, what else could it be?
    anyone got scantool to check ECU and its outputs in Brisbane??? I'm stumped

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    have you checked your maf sensor , if it is dirty it may cause the engine to over fuel and run hot .

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    Are the fan belts tight, the shrouds in place and the fan only spins 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn when flicked by hand?

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    mudnut sound like he's onto it, i was going to suggest the same

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    Hi Reggie,

    Have you flushed out the block?
    I do know of a batch of 2007 models where the radiators sludged up due to left over casting sand / contaminants in the block ... the symptoms being temperature would be normal around town, but get up to highway speed and they would start to overheat. In all these cases, the radiators were around 1/3 blocked up with sludge, and had to be rodded out to clean - normally doing this fixed most problems.

    I know you said you have changed out the radiator, but if this is the case with yours, you might want to flush out the block too.
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    ^^^^^ That or viscous fan hub no working anymore.

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    nipagu7 where is the maf sensor? anyone on Brisbane southside can help? can pay $$
    viscous fan providing plenty of resistance when I try to spin it, spinning 1/4 at best
    happygu flush out the block? what do you mean flush out the block? before radiator change, it was only getting hot on highway, now radiator and thermostat changed, it gets hot everywhere, usually after around 15 minutes of driving, but often drops back to halfway after about 30 seconds to a minute, then goes up again randomly, sometimes not for a while though.
    is there any recall on this faulty batch of 2007s?

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    Resistance when hot or cold? Get the car at running temp and see if the fan is locking up. A good way, albeit a tad dangerous is to try and stop the fan from spinning when its at temp. Usually a good thick welding glove does the trick for finger protection. just make sure the blades are spinning away from you when you try to stop it. If you can stop it when its hot, the hub is fubar.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    Resistance when hot or cold? Get the car at running temp and see if the fan is locking up. A good way, albeit a tad dangerous is to try and stop the fan from spinning when its at temp. Usually a good thick welding glove does the trick for finger protection. just make sure the blades are spinning away from you when you try to stop it. If you can stop it when its hot, the hub is fubar.
    Hahaha if you cant stop it youre fubar

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    Check you dont have a collapsed radiator hose. Additionally, I know its hard to check without removal, but your water pump impeller may be corroded or even non existent if the coolant concentrations have been off the mark or its simp,y done a lot of kilometers. I would use a rolled up newspaper to check the fan, just a bit less risk.
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