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2nd June 2020, 09:10 PM
#1
GU front end clunk
So my 98 GU had a bad clunking noise coming from the front end when in 4wd thought it was the CVs so though while I’m there will do a full front end rear build both sides finished all of that and still making the exact same noise sounds like it’s coming from under my feet thinking either front diff or tail shaft. The clunking starts as soon as I take off disappear for a few seconds comes back on and off please help me before it turns into fire wood 😂
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2nd June 2020 09:10 PM
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3rd June 2020, 09:01 AM
#2
Expert
I'm thinking it could be a seized or stiff uni joint in the prop shaft. I had a similar sensation in another vehicle and that was the culprit.
2008 CRD Auto Wagon
Factory snorkel, flashlube catchcan pro, 3" manta exhaust, hpd boost controller, dyno-tuned & egr deleted
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3rd June 2020, 09:31 AM
#3
Check your steering damper clamp bolts. I found I had a similar noise and they were moving a little bit on initial movement.
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3rd June 2020, 09:37 AM
#4
Thanks for the reply’s I’ll check them out after work see how I go
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3rd June 2020, 01:53 PM
#5
Patrol God
Sounds silly, but check your handbrake is disengaging properly. Mine had the noise manifest itself in the front drivetrain for some weird reason.
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4th June 2020, 09:04 AM
#6
Travelling Podologist
Does it make the clunk in response to road surface. I had a terrible clunk which was only obviously on *bad* corrugations, not mild ones. Felt it through ugh the floor like you. In my case the bushes on the driver side control arm had been destroyed. Hard to see, inside the chassis, but look for the bolted end of the control arm inside the chassis, & compare it to the passenger side. If that’s it you may be lucky & just be able to tighten it up!
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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4th June 2020, 07:24 PM
#7
Hey it’s definitely drive line related as it in crease and decreases with speed, changes the unis no change but I tested and it only happens when the hubs are actually locked in should have done that first I know haha, they are AVM HD free wheeling my next question do they require the “egg ring” if so there is none which could be causing the issue
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5th June 2020, 07:30 AM
#8
Originally Posted by
Peggy
Hey it’s definitely drive line related as it in crease and decreases with speed, changes the unis no change but I tested and it only happens when the hubs are actually locked in should have done that first I know haha, they are AVM HD free wheeling my next question do they require the “egg ring” if so there is none which could be causing the issue
Try only locking one side at a time. Is it only under load or coasting etc etc? Are they genuine AVM hubs or the Chinee copies? I bought Chinee copies of the Genuine Nissan free wheeling hubs and they made terrible noises. I finally forked out the coin for the real deal ones and all noises went. And no I don't believe you require the egg ring for AVMs.
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5th June 2020, 07:44 AM
#9
Another thing to check is the diff ratio's. Make sure the back is the same as the front.
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5th June 2020, 08:13 AM
#10
Yeah mate it’s only under load if I let off or put the clutch in it goes away, will test the one locked in at a time cheers
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