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Thread: Stedi LED lights

  1. #11
    Expert Yeti's Beast's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    Ta. I realised after I posted before that I needed to have the load connected to mesasure the voltage drop. Doh. So I checked it again this morning & found with the motor running & battery voltage at 14.03v I got a voltage drop of 1.39v. Kinda wish it was more! Certainly heavier wiring would reduce that voltage drop, but whether by enough to see a worthwhile improvement is the big question. Anyone have thoughts on that? Patrolapart's loom is $285 which is a lot of dough to spend if it doesn't make a lot of difference. Cheapest pre made wiring harness I've been able to turn up is still $170. (Traxide - but includes wiring for a pair of driving lights).
    In the olden days when I had old Holdens, I used to cut the head light loom and fit a pair of 30 amp relays. One for low and one for high. Power came from the battery to the relays via 6 mm wire and I was able to run 90/120 H4 globes without worry. Sometimes I got creative and made up a new loom myself from the relay to the lights.


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    Cuppa (13th April 2020)

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  4. #12
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    loom 1.JPGloom 2.JPGloom 3.JPGloom 4.JPGloom 5.JPG

    Cuppa, loom shots as PM'd. I think the smaller plugs are for the driving lights - could be wrong, has been a while since removed.
    Last edited by PeeBee; 13th April 2020 at 09:44 PM.

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    Found these spec sheets on the superloomsuper loom 1.JPGsuper loom 2.JPG

    headlights and driving lights, 6mm cable

  6. #14
    Expert Brissieboy's Avatar
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    Why spend that amount of cash on a pre-made loom?
    All you need is to use the headlight wire to operate a relay, then use the relay contacts to switch the lights from a decent heavy wire direct from the battery (fused) to the lights.
    A couple of metres of wire, a relay, a few 6mm crimp connectors and a few small cable ties to neaten it up your all done for around the cost of a six-pack.

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    Patrol Freak BillsGU's Avatar
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    What he said X2 ^^^^^^^^. I have always thought that these after market wiring looms were highly overpriced. The only thing I would add is to also pick up a new H4 plug to ensure the new thicker positive AND earth cables go all the way to the globe.
    Last edited by BillsGU; 15th April 2020 at 11:26 AM.

  9. #16
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brissieboy View Post
    Why spend that amount of cash on a pre-made loom?
    All you need is to use the headlight wire to operate a relay, then use the relay contacts to switch the lights from a decent heavy wire direct from the battery (fused) to the lights.
    A couple of metres of wire, a relay, a few 6mm crimp connectors and a few small cable ties to neaten it up your all done for around the cost of a six-pack.
    If I were at home in Vic this is the way I would go without doubt, but we are half way between Cairns & Chilagoe without all the tools I'd have at home. I could do the job here but only have a cheap & nasty non ratchet crimper, no heatshrink, no heat gun, not even a vice to hold stuff . The aim is to end up with something which looks neat but more importantly does a good job of reducing voltage drop. I agree that the pre-made looms seem overpriced but on balance & in the circumstances they are a better guarantee that I'll end up with a reliable version of what I want. I could wait until we are home but that could be several years away, & I want a little project whilst we are holed up for the duration of the virus. Having the use of a second vehicle whilst we are here makes things easier too.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3 Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2 lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, Tyredog TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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  11. #17
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    Cuppa, I suggest you do the loom upgrade as per your other post if you have already got +100 halogens or whatever and see what you think.

    With a full 12 volt supply I found the hi rated halo's more than adequate and still yellow enough so the road signs don't blind you like happens with that white LED glare

    I've never run LED in my headlamps (well, once but pulled them after one night on the freeway) only ever used +100 Osram Halo's... much friendlier on my poor old pensioner eyes
    Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.

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    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brissieboy View Post
    Why spend that amount of cash on a pre-made loom?
    All you need is to use the headlight wire to operate a relay, then use the relay contacts to switch the lights from a decent heavy wire direct from the battery (fused) to the lights.
    A couple of metres of wire, a relay, a few 6mm crimp connectors and a few small cable ties to neaten it up your all done for around the cost of a six-pack.
    If I were at home in Vic this is the way I would go without doubt, but we are half way between Cairns & Chilagoe without all the tools I'd have at home. I could do the job here but only have a cheap & nasty non ratchet crimper, no heatshrink, no heat gun, not even a vice to hold stuff . The aim is to end up with something which looks neat but more importantly does a good job of reducing voltage drop. I agree that the pre-made looms seem overpriced but on balance & in the circumstances they are a better guarantee that I'll end up with a reliable version of what I want. I could wait until we are home but that could be several years away, & I want a little project whilst we are holed up for the duration of the virus. Having the use of a second vehicle whilst we are here makes things easier too.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3 Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2 lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, Tyredog TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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  14. #19
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by the evil twin View Post
    Cuppa, I suggest you do the loom upgrade as per your other post if you have already got +100 halogens or whatever and see what you think.

    With a full 12 volt supply I found the hi rated halo's more than adequate and still yellow enough so the road signs don't blind you like happens with that white LED glare

    I've never run LED in my headlamps (well, once but pulled them after one night on the freeway) only ever used +100 Osram Halo's... much friendlier on my poor old pensioner eyes
    Yep I've already decided not to go with the LED globes for much the reasons you suggest ET. Current globes are 60/55w PHILIPS X-treme Vision Plus +130% Halogens, which might be ok once I have a new loom in & if so I'll get some 100 watters when they need replacing. As it is we do very little night driving these days, & it is more for 'just in case' outback dirt I want better lights for mainly. ie places where there generally no any other traffic, & very few signs to reflect. In those situations I reckon the combo of the IPF's (100w each) & a light bar should be more than adequate, especially at our sedate pace. It's possible a light bar may render the IPF's superfluous, but I'll have to wait & see on that.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3 Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2 lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, Tyredog TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

  15. #20
    Expert Yeti's Beast's Avatar
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    I had the same combo on the Patrol and it worked out good to be able to swap between them depending on the situation. In the rain I just used the ipf and when on the highway, I used both but if the signs were too bright, I switched off the light bar and still had ample light. On the new car I only have a pair of 9 inch LED but they are too bright, signs are blinding and when we switch back to low beam, my eyes can’t see anything. First time I did it, I thought my low beams had turned off.


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