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Thread: TD42 cooling issues

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    TD42 cooling issues

    Hi all,

    Ive got a 91 LWB Safari Kingsroad. I have had it for about 6 months when i got it it had a leak between the front plate and the block so ended up striping everything and replacing all the seals that i could find. I also bolted on a TD05, custom airbox, modified intake, 4" snorkel.
    I replaced the water pump, thermostat 82 deg and rad cap (all genuine) flushed the radiator and also added a water feed from the top of the thermostat housing to one of the welsh plugs on the back of the head (https://trundlesautomotive.co.nz/pro...0afa97b3&_ss=r)

    No my problem is it still creeps up in temp when climbing a decent hill most I've had is 105 deg where i stopped and let it cool down, etg's don't go above 450 deg post turbo (14 psi and about 1/2 turn on fuel screw).

    Normal highway driving it sits at about 80 degrees but it fluctuates from 70 - 90, is that normal or should it just site around 80?

    The thing i don't understand is that after reaching the top of a hill and start going down the other side temps drop pretty quick but they drop down to 60 on a long down hill.

    Also i switched out the thermostat for a modified one, longer to stop the recirculation of coolant thru the engine.

    What should i look at next? new rad?

    Regards Leroy
    20200219_200748.jpg

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    Patrol Guru 0-TJ-0's Avatar
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    All sounds pretty standard to me. Mine runs very similar and I'm about to try a new thermostat to try and settle the needle down a bit.

    I put a new hub and fan assembly in mine recently and it has given me a bit more room to play on those up hill runs and recovers much quicker as soon as you're off the throttle.

    I don't think you'll ever fully solve it. Unless someone knows something I don't.. I've even toyed with trying to fit another radiator somewhere just to see what it actually takes to keep up.
    2003 GU TD42 with a few extra ponies

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    Moderator MudRunnerTD's Avatar
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    There is some interesting research here mate. have a read.

    http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...er-Thermostats
    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
    Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up

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    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
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    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    Are the radiator shrouds in place?

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    The master farter
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    Quote Originally Posted by leroy123 View Post
    Hi all,.....

    No my problem is it still creeps up in temp when climbing a decent hill most I've had is 105 deg where i stopped and let it cool down, etg's don't go above 450 deg post turbo (14 psi and about 1/2 turn on fuel screw).
    This tells me to go get the Patrol properly dyno tuned first. It could be as simple as a bad tune. If its still the same after a dyno, then look at everything else I think.

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    Thanks for the input, shrouds are in-place.

    I will get it tuned at some stage but no one does it locally and i want to finish off a few things. Too much diesel would mean the etg's would be running high? mine sits at about 250 - 300 while cruising and pushes 450 up a long hill, is this pretty standard?

    I still don't understand why going down long hills the temp drops down to 60deg, shouldn't the thermostat close and stop the coolant from going thru the rad and hold the temp around 80?

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    The master farter
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    Cooling down fast means your cooling system is ok, mine does the same, and believe me, I've done everything known to man on my cooling system to make sure its right. But I hit a hill and the temps will sky rocket, but will cool down pretty fast on the down side.

    I've had mine at two different tuners now and its running at its optimum, but still gets hot real easy. Only in the last week I think I have narrowed it down. My injectors are high crack pressure injectors, ever since getting them installed, I've had cooling issues, only to be told by tuners its normal. I know its not, as it never did this before, and my EGT's are great, I rarely see over 300c.
    So a customer of mine who owns two TD Patrol and is very knowledgable on this motor just installed high crack pressure injectors. He said on his first drive it ran hotter. It got hot very easy hitting hills, but would cool fast on the down side. Just as mine does. He removes the injectors, all back to normal. Bam! Theres my issue!
    He's advanced the pump timing on his Patrol say said in doing this you have to sacrifice some power. Not sure on the hows and why's of this but it seems this is the issue.

    So maybe you have injector issues? Not sure, might be worth checking out though. I will be buying a new set of stock squirters for my TD once I have the money to do it thats for sure.

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    That could be it then, i put a reco set of injectors in when i did the turbo with the higher crack pressure. I don't have any idea of how it was running before as i put the temp gauge on after the turbo install.

    Is it worth looking at a new rad to try to minimize the temperature creep on the long ascents?

    how would this increase the operating temp?
    What does the higher crack pressure actually achieve? do they inject the diesel a little later than stock but get it in there faster, better atomization? so advancing the timing offsets this?

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    Quote Originally Posted by leroy123 View Post
    That could be it then, i put a reco set of injectors in when i did the turbo with the higher crack pressure. I don't have any idea of how it was running before as i put the temp gauge on after the turbo install.

    Is it worth looking at a new rad to try to minimize the temperature creep on the long ascents?

    how would this increase the operating temp?
    What does the higher crack pressure actually achieve? do they inject the diesel a little later than stock but get it in there faster, better atomization? so advancing the timing offsets this?
    Hows that!? your experiencing the same as me also with higher crack pressure injectors.

    From my understanding, the higher crack pressure means the injector will release the measured amount of fuel at a higher pressure than standard to atomize the fuel better. In doing this however the injector pump need to push more fuel in "per squirt". So the slight extra fuel I take it per squirt is eventually equating to higher temps when under load.

    I'm just excited to see you are in the same boat as me. I was so sure from day one when these were fitted to mine that this was it. The mechanic thought I was a idiot.

    As for changing radiators etc etc. Don't bother. I've had a triple core ally rad in, big fat copper rad in, now had the OEM rad back in with zero difference. Also fitted to mine, JPC high Flow water pump, Infinity G35 fan with extra oil in my viscous hub so now its locked 100%, a water rail feeding coolant into the cylinder head and the Tridon Hi Flow thermostat. ALL have made zero difference to helping with this issue.

    @Hodge! Check this thread out. Sounds familiar?
    Last edited by mudski; 21st February 2020 at 07:34 AM.

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    Mine acts all very similar although my injectors haven't been touched (as far as I'm aware) but it also hasn't had a tune since the new pump went on.
    2003 GU TD42 with a few extra ponies

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